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I have a 2005 Honda VTX 1300 R , About 6 months ago I started having problems starting my bike
AFTER riding for a while , about an hour or so and I shut it off, I try to start it and it just Grunts, will NOT turn over. This does NOT happen every time, but seems to be getting worse !

I HAVE NO PROBLEM STARTING IT WHEN I FIRST START IT IN THE MORNING . .

Only after I have been riding for a while. My first thought something was getting Hot ! After I let is set for 10-15 minutes it would start. This morning I want to the gas station about a mile a way, After I got gas my bike wouldn't start, just Grunt, won't turn over. So I tried putting it in gear and push the bike forward and backward , Just a hair, can't really push it, and then It started when I tried it again.

So at first I thought something was getting Hot & it had to cool down to start, NOW I am wondering if maybe it is the starter getting stuck or in a bind , and rocking my bike forward & backward Frees it up and then it will start ??

This is nothing I can fix myself, and I need to take it to a shop, Just don't have the money right now $

Seems like it has to be one or the other to me ?

Would love to narrow down the problem, afraid to go very far and get stranded.
Once I figure out the problem then maybe I can get it to a shop and get it fixed.

Thanks

GREG / Texas
 

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Every time I have had a hot start problem on my bikes, it has always been a bad battery. Now the cause of the bad battery may haven been different. I had a regulator go on my last bike.

A hot battery doesn't work as well. So once the battery cooled in my experience, I was able to start the bike again.

I would suggest having the battery tested (as others will say, be sure to have them test the load as if it was a car, not a motorcycle as these bikes take a lot of load to start).

This may not be your problem, but it is a good place to start.
 

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Normal engine running temps and too much clutch at take-off would frequently cause a stall.
Immediate re-start attempt would stall the starter. Wait 20 seconds and it would crank ok.
OEM 170 CCA battery had the most issues. 200 CCA could handle it better.
Check battery voltage while cranking and check charging voltage at the battery when it is running.
How old is the battery??

YUASA Battery test, Charging, and Load Test::
Connect a digital voltmeter directly to the battery—red lead
to the positive terminal and black lead to negative. While
watching the voltmeter, press the start button and crank
the engine’s starter (it’s OK if the engine starts). Just before
the engine starts, note the voltmeter reading. As the starter
motor places an electrical load on the battery, cranking
voltage will normally drop. If battery voltage drops below
9.5 volts (at 70° F) while the engine is cranking over,
the battery needs to be replaced.
If the engine starts too
quickly to read cranking voltage, the ignition or fuel injection
computer fuse can be removed. This will allow the starter
motor to operate (without the engine starting) and cranking
voltage can be measured.

Check battery terminal connections -- vibration loosens them....

Clean and lube Starter Switch also. Many times the Starter Switch is at fault.
https://www.vtxoa.com/forums/73-how-step-step/456068-rattlebars-starter-switch-mtce.html

Explore the Step by Step.
https://www.vtxoa.com/forums/96-1300-section/456596-1300-diagrams-charging-starting-ignition.html
 

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The battery cables are crap I went with a size larger and made the ends myself with a hydraulic wire crimp and have not had it happen since.


It's been a few years but I seem to remember my cables at around 30 ohms or more.
 

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It could be that your carb or injector could be leaking and causing the cylinder to have enough gas in it that the starter can't turn it over. When you put the bike in gear and rock it back and forth you open the valves and release the compression.
 
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