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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I've been having starting issues. Sometimes when I hit the switch it'll start to turn then stops, I'll hit the button again and it starts. It doesn't do it everytime, let's say 1 out of 5 times. Sometimes it resets my trip meter and sometimes it don't. I replaced the battery thinking that was it but I guess it wasn't. I first noticed it right after I changed the clutch springs. I don't know why that would start something like this but that's when I noticed it. Could it be the ground problem, starter switch, starter, alternator? I wanted to get ya'lls opinion on this before I give it to the stealer for who knows how long.
 

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JimmyH said:
I've been having starting issues. Sometimes when I hit the switch it'll start to turn then stops, I'll hit the button again and it starts. It doesn't do it everytime, let's say 1 out of 5 times. Sometimes it resets my trip meter and sometimes it don't. I replaced the battery thinking that was it but I guess it wasn't. I first noticed it right after I changed the clutch springs. I don't know why that would start something like this but that's when I noticed it. Could it be the ground problem, starter switch, starter, alternator? I wanted to get ya'lls opinion on this before I give it to the stealer for who knows how long.
Yes, yes, and yes to your questions. Starting problems tend to be the most perplexing. I would start with the obvious...before going to the stealer.

1) Do the ground if you have an 1800

2) Double check the battery cables...lose cables are a symptom

3_ Starter switch...http://www.rattlebars.com/mtz/starter.html

Bull
 

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I agree with Bull's three solutions.

If they do not help, there is information in one of my
coyote7864's best posts on troubleshooting the starter switch
versus the starter relay and
an inexpensive replacement starter relay originally
intended for use in a Murray lawn tractor.

Click on the red letters below the signature photo
of my bike.
 

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I've had the same type of starting problem intermittently for quite a while now. The engine will turn just enough to make it to the compression stroke and stop turning. At this time, the starter is drawing so many amps trying to turn over the engine it draws the voltage down to a point where it resets your trip meter (like disconnecting the battery would).

I've tried almost everything (search old posts of mine). I thought I had 'cured' the problem numerous times. It has finally got to the point where it will not start anytime (as opposed to intermittently). NOW I believe I can track it down and find the culprit (wishful thinking??). I was planning on trying one thing at a time this afternoon until its 'solved'. I'll post my results here.

Good luck.

Todd
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Thanks guys. I'm working all weekend so I won't have a chance to check anything till Monday. But I'll post up if I find out anything.
 
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Don't completely rule out the battery. I had two with the exact same symptoms. Trip meter would reset. I always found that just holding the starter switch in when it failed would, spin it back up after 3 or 4 seconds. My second battery would do it after the bike sat for a week or so. It then got progressively worse, until the meter reset the first startup everyday.

The voltage would check just fine on both batteries. But, when I had them tested at the dealer they failed. I was kind of dissapointed with the Yuasa batteries and went with a Die Hard for battery #3. So far so good after 3 months.

Definitely make sure you clean or replace the switch as it seems to be an issue for a large number who have had starting problems. I swapped mine under warranty, before changing battery #2.

I found alot of posts that led me to believe that a good number of folks, religiously use battery tenders. But know of others that do nothing and have had batteries last for 3 or 4 years.
 

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I have had bad luck with batteries that i tried to keep charged
during the winter by putting them on a trickle charger for a few hours
each month during the winter months. Seemed to accelerate the
failure of the batteries. This is from 1972 until about 1990.

After that, I ran a yuasa battery in my Honda Pacific Coast
(PC800) for nine years without using any charger.
I would run the bike every Sunday during the
winter months for 30 minutes to keep the oil circulating
and keep the battery charged.
i finally replaced the battery not because it ever failed,
but because it was so old that I didn't trust it anymore.
I did the same for my VTX except for this last winter where I was
getting lazy. I ran the bike on Christmas Day
and did not run it again until late March.
 

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Well, its been a while, but I said I'd post once I got her up and running again (I hate it when work interferes with my private life :) ). This time I tried doubling up all the wires from the battery to the starter and adding temporary ground wires from the starter to the frame (similar to the newer "F" models). It helped, but eventually, I suceeded in fusing my truck starter relay closed - drawing WAAAAAYYY to many amps. I installed yet another battery (4th one) and she cranks over like a new bike. Good call guys! Like someone mentioned above, my 'old' battery charged just fine, but apparently could not put out a load.

I've since removed all my temporary, doubled up wires, and permanently added two "F" model ground wires from the starter hold down bolts to the lower radiator mounting frame tabs (intall longer bolts and nut from behind). Its an easy install. The ground wires are surprisingly affordable from HDLParts.

Honda Part # 32602-MCH-A00 @ $4.62 ea. (I used two - "F" uses one.)

Also, I found an easier way to get to your starter (the wire or to remove the starter entirely). Don't follow the manual - it won't work (not enough room). Previously I wrote to remove the bottom mounting bolts and disconnect the bottom radiator hose, leaving the radiator to hang from the single top bolt. Well, its even easier to just unbolt the bottom and top bolts (without disconnecting any hoses) and let the radiator hang from the hoses. This creates enough room to remove the starter wires and starter without the coolant mess.

I'm planning on keeping a Battery Tender connected to my bike whenever its in the (HOT) garage. Maybe this will solve my starting problems. Supposedly the Battery Tender will not overcharge the battery like trickle chargers do.

Good luck.

Todd
 

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JimmyH said:
I've been having starting issues. Sometimes when I hit the switch it'll start to turn then stops, I'll hit the button again and it starts. It doesn't do it everytime, let's say 1 out of 5 times. Sometimes it resets my trip meter and sometimes it don't. I replaced the battery thinking that was it but I guess it wasn't. I first noticed it right after I changed the clutch springs. I don't know why that would start something like this but that's when I noticed it. Could it be the ground problem, starter switch, starter, alternator? I wanted to get ya'lls opinion on this before I give it to the stealer for who knows how long.
I noticed that you said the problem started after you changed the clutch.
If you have a 2002 model VTX and the ground relocation service bulletin has not been done, then the main battery ground lead may still have been incorrectly attached to a bolt on the clutch cover and you may not have reinstalled it. If this is the case, the battery will then ground through a small secondary wire that will not survive the starter current draw. You might check to make sure that the ground lead is attached correctly to an engine crankcase bolt.
 
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