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2008 VTX 1800T, 2007 HD Sportster xl1200C, 93' Ninja 250.
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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
My bike keeps blowing the fuse for the turn signals. If I replace the fuse the turn signals work for a while. Then the fuse will blow. All turn signals stop working (that might be a “duh” thing to say) but wanted to mention it’s not just one blinker or just left or right or just front or back. I’ve done the ground fix and went through cleaned/greased the switch housing last year when I got the bike with 9.5k miles now has ~23k issue just started last week. I’m not super electrically good but can learn. I have a manual and can test the contacts but because the blinkers work when I first change the fuse, I’m not sure if anything will test bad.
Any suggestions would be appreciated.

thanks in advance,

marc
 

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Does it only happen when moving?
Did you mod any part of the TS? Add Leds, etc...
Light Blue 2 pin connectors for the Right side, Frt probably in headlight bucket,
Rear probably in the Right side frame cover.
Orange 2 pin connectors for the left TS in the same places as the Right side ones.

Open the connectors and see what happens.
 

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I just posted a message and said I was not that good on electrical rt above your post. But that said I have always been able to fix it. I would look at all my wiring and make sure nothing was shorting out on the frame or rubbing together first. It could be the bulb connection itself shorting out. Got to start somewhere. Check for a short & check your bulb connection. Make sure your fuse is the rt amp also. I always seem to find out what is wrong when I'am really trying hard and then I say to myself boy that was easy.

Good luck. Dean
 

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2008 VTX 1800T, 2007 HD Sportster xl1200C, 93' Ninja 250.
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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Does it only happen when moving?
Did you mod any part of the TS? Add Leds, etc...
Light Blue 2 pin connectors for the Right side, Frt probably in headlight bucket,
Rear probably in the Right side frame cover.
Orange 2 pin connectors for the left TS in the same places as the Right side ones.

Open the connectors and see what happens.
I'm not sure if it happens when moving or stationary once it quits working it doesn't come back on (blown fuse) It does seem that both times it's happened that I was riding when they quit.
No Mods have been done other than Pair valve stuff removed.
is "TS" Turn Signal?

Thanks for your reply. I'll be testing when I get home from work tonight.
 

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TS = Turn Signal.
Pull out the headlight fuse to reduce battery life while searching a short.
Put Kill switch in off position or remove 30 amp FI fuse to reduce load on the battery while testing.
Some places to check:
The wiring that makes a 90 degree turn at the fenders.
A hole in the fender that should have a grommet in it to protect the wires going to the rear.
Something shorting on a cable harness clip.
Push pull the wires when TS is on and blinking.
A broken filament could reconnect at a lower point and draw more current.
The TS fuse is 5 amps. Just about at the limit for two OEM bulbs.
 
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2008 VTX 1800T, 2007 HD Sportster xl1200C, 93' Ninja 250.
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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
@Hans&Feet thank you!!! It still had all original fuses in it even all the spares. 5amp fuses for blinkers. Bought new ones and did the testing. All bulb sockets and contacts look amazing. I turned ignition on with new fuse. Rattled, moved, pushed and pull all wires and wire looms I could see with seat and right side cover off. Lightly pounded on all blinker housings, headlight assembly, turn signal switch and bounced on the bike… blinkers still work. I have a 300 mile ride I’m leading tomorrow and will try and pay attention if/when they stop working. Thanks again for all your help!
 

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This story sounds very very very familiar:

 

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2008 VTX 1800T, 2007 HD Sportster xl1200C, 93' Ninja 250.
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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
I went on a ride Saturday after replacing the turn signal fuse. After about an hour or so of riding the blinkers quit working again. I hadn't used them for awhile before I noticed them not working. I rode with the blinkers not working for most of the day. At one of our gas stops I replaced the fuse again. Not 20 mins later the fuse had blown. I still don't see any wires that seem worn through. @henkvdb thanks for the post. I don't see any wires in that area on my bike that the guy posted about. Also the only thing that stops working are the blinkers and front running lights. Could the blinker relay heat up and cause the fuse to blow?
 

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That 'guy' that posted was me. :)
I don't remember if my front running lights went out, I do remember my brake light also went out. I of course only figured that one out 1200 miles later. Blinkers I could live without, brake light, after the fact, scared me to death.
'wires that seem worn through': mine were not worn through, the metal hook just pressed into the insulation and then created a short without leaving physical evidence. The photo in the post was taken AFTER I cut away all the outer insulation.
Of course, YOUR problem could be completely different.
Good luck.
 

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Henkvdb---you have a Gen1 1800 with a tradional TS flasher.

Prpldude--- has a 9 pin TS controller on his 1800 Gen 2. Single filaments up front.

The short could be in the same area as henkvdb on his 1800.
The front end movement could well be a prime place to find a short.

I have a 1800F TS drawing, but probably the same as N/R/S/T.

If you are real ambitious you could purchase a 5 amp automotive circuit breaker(NAPA)
put some wire on it, tin the leads on the other end flatten the tinned wire to plug into the fuse holder connections.

I made this for my search of a short in tail light or brake light.
It may not work with the TS controller since the 2 amp bulb will be in series with
the TS controller and a light(Run) .
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
@henkvdb lol sorry I didn’t realize that was you… thanks for clarifying what was going on with yours… yeah no blinkers isn’t a big deal… just wonder what else might mess up if it is pinched wires somewhere.
I appreciate your insight.
@Hans&Feet thanks for your direction and the diagram. I might try that lightbulb “tester”
I’ll dig back into it later tonight or tomorrow after work.
Thanks again
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Finally got the resettable 5amp fuse and had time tonight to troubleshoot this issue. Now all of a sudden the fuse was tripping every time I turned the key on. So I took the bulbs out one at a time and tested each time I removed one. No change, as soon as I turned on the ignition with a bulb removed the breaker would pop. So I decided to start at the switch. I took it apart so I could remove everything. I removed the mechanical lever and decided I'd turn on the ignition and the fuse didn't pop. The switch was dirty and it looked like the dielectric grease was all over inside the housing. So I cleaned it all up and will re-grease it and put it back togetner in the morning. But I feel confident I've found the issue.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Nope, still broke. And now the breaker won't pop. I have the head light assembly and front turn signals all disassembled. and have inspected everything I can see/get to. Nothing looks worn or frayed or exposed. Wiggled pushed pulled and can pop the fuse now. Lol if I had any hair it'd be pulled out lol
 

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TS switch has only caused open circuits.
Did you disconnect the TS lights in the back??? Isolate...

You said >>Wiggled pushed pulled and can pop the fuse now.<<<
So where are you pushing and pulling???
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
TS switch has only caused open circuits.
Did you disconnect the TS lights in the back??? Isolate...

You said >>Wiggled pushed pulled and can pop the fuse now.<<<
So where are you pushing and pulling???
Sorry typo, Meant to say "can't get breaker fuse to pop now."
 

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Do you have a 55/60 watt headlight??? You could use that as your visual indicator.
 

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Use the headlight as a visual fuse. I understood your re-settable fuse died.
Wire it to one of your blown fuses.

It may work better if you disconnect the rear bulbs. *** May not work like that.
Two TS lamps consume about as much power as one headlight.
Does it ever blow a fuse when front light is in daylight running light mode??
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
I’ve been out of commission this past week with a bad back so I haven’t made any progress.

@Hans&Feet i used incorrect wording. The resettable fuse is still good. when I said Pop/blown I meant that the resettable fuse would need to be reset.

Headlight is always on, usually on High beam. When I’ve been doing my testing in the garage I take out the headlight fuse and make sure the kill switch is off in order to save on battery.

I have all new incandescent TS bulbs to put in later this week when my back is better.

Im also going to make one of the testing lights with a blown fuse and old TS bulb.
 
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