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Discussion Starter #4
How to Remove Final Drive hub (Coyote)

How to Remove Final Drive hub (Coyote)

To remove the HUB
1. Pick up the bike with a lift
2. Loosen the bolt in front on the swing-arm that holds the brake bracket in.
3. Take out the axel by removing the nut on the brake side...tap it out...and all the way.
4. Pull the rear-brake off the disk and lay it on your pipes (no need to remove the fitting or compromise the brake system..just lay a rag on your pipe and drape it over).
5. Slide the wheel the the right (pipe side)...it will come off the spline
6. Raise the bike high and roll the tire out.
7. Take off the shock and use a piece of tape to keep it high and out of your way (tape it to the fender)
8. Take off the 4 bolts that hold the hub on.
9. Slide the hub right off. The drive line comes out with the hub...it's okay...and easy to re-install

Last update: 2004-06-23 13:38
Author: Coyote
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Car Tires being used by VTX Riders

Car Tires being used by VTX Riders


These tires and sizes are taken directly from this thread on the VTXOA.com website and from Duc;
http://www.vtxoa.com/forums/showthread.php?t=128155&highlight=dark+side

You can also find much more info on Car Tire use on the Dark Side forum here;
http://mcdarksiders.forumotion.com/index.htm

15 inch tires;

Bridgestone Potenza 205/65-15

Douglas Extra-Trac 205/65R15

Douglas Extra-Trac 205/70R15

General Grabber UHP 205/70/15

Goodyear Tripletred 205/65R15

Kumho 165/80/15 40psi

Michelin Hydroedge 205/70R/15 40psi

Nexen Brand (korean) 165 /80/ R15 45psi

Republic Invader Sport 215/65 15

Sears Guardsmen 111, 205/65-15


16 inch Tires;

BFG G-Force Sport 205/55/ZR16 (42PSI)

BFG T/A Sport 205/55/16

Bridgestone Potenza G009 205/60/16

Continental Extreme Contact 205/55/16

Dunlop FM901 205/55/R16

Dunlop SP 901 205/55/16

Falken 205/60/16 H Rated (41PSI)

Falken 205/55/16 Z Rated

Falken ZE-512 Ziex 205/55/R16 (43PSI)

Falken ZE-512 Ziex 205/60/R16

Firestone Affinity 205/60/16

Firestone Fusion 205/55/R16 Z Rated

General Exclaim UHP 205/55/16

Goodyear Assurance Triple Tread 195/55/16 (42PSI)

Goodyear Assurance Triple Tread 205/55/16H (40PSI,44PSI)

Goodyear Assurance Triple Tread 205/60/16H (44PSI)

Goodyear Eagle F1 GS-D3 205/55/16

Hankook Ventus Sport K104 205/ZR55/16

Hankook Radial K106 205/55/R16

Kumho Solus 205/55/R16

Kumho 205/60/16

Kuhmo 205-65-16KH (38PSI)

Mastercraft Avenger ZHP 205/55/ZR16

Maxxis 205/55/16

Michelin Hydroedge 205/65/16 (43PSI)

Michelin Riken Raptor 205/55/ZR16

Sumitomo HTR A/S PO1 205/60 R 16

Toyo Proxes 195/65/16 V Rated

Toyo Proxes 205/60/16 V rated

Toyo T1-R 205/55R16

Yokohama AVID V4S 205/60R16

Yokohama AVS ES100 205/50/16

Yokohama 205/50/16H

Yokohama 205/60/16 H Rated

Last update: 2006-11-30 08:58

18 inch Tires

Cooper zeon zpt 215/45/zr18


Toyo Proxes T1R 215/45/18

Kumho 215/45/18


Author: Larry McKenna
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Can't shift into first gear at a stoplight

Can't shift into first gear at a stoplight


A common complaint is riders trying to shift into first gear at a stoplight and the bike will not go into gear. The solution is to quickly release the clutch and then pull it back in to get things spinning again.
VTXOA member silvervtx04s expalins why it works:

"The transmission in the X is a constant mesh transmission. Constant mesh means that each gear on one shaft has a matching free-spinning gear on the opposing shaft, which are meshed with each other at all times. This means there's no synchromesh mechanism as there's no need to bring a gear up to speed before meshing it. Gears transfer power by pinning one of the free-spinning gears to it's shaft, and in a motorcycle transmission this is done by having one of the non-free-spinning gears slide over to engage dogs into slots in the free-spinning gear. When you pull in the clutch and come to a stop you stop the rotation of the input shaft . You now have both input and output shafts stopped the dogs and slots may or may not be lined up and if you try to shift, the gears will not engage. Releasing the clutch and disengaging it will spin the input shaft allowing the dogs and slots to engage. Its all very simple once you understand how the transmission works."
 

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Reusing Bearings

I know this topic has come up before and many have had questions.
So here is from (one) bearing Mfg.


http://www.goallballs.com/Bearings_seals.asp?page=WBK
REMOVING WHEEL BEARINGS:
When you knock a bearing out of a wheel, for chroming, powder coating, etc., you are fundamentally destroying that bearing. In fact, there's no other way to get it out without destroying it because it's pressed in on the outer diameter but access to the bearing is from the inner diameter. So you're putting an impact force across the balls of the bearing, which damages it. It's called loading across the bearing races. You're putting little microscopic dents into the ball and the race, and over time they get aggravated. The technical term is brinelling; when you put a shock force on an outer race to an inner race across the balls, that's what you get.

Brinelling refers to a material surface failure caused by contact stress that exceeds the material limit. This failure is caused by just one application of a load great enough to exceed the material limit. The result is a permanent dent or "brinell" mark. It is a common cause of roller bearing failures, and loss of preload in bolted joints when a hardened washer is not used. Engineers can use the Brinell hardness of materials in their calculations to avoid this mode of failure. A rolling element bearing's static load rating is defined to avoid this failure type. A similar-looking kind of damage is called false brinelling. This occurs when contacting bodies vibrate against each other in the presence of very small loads. The results is a finely polished surface that resembles a brinell mark but has not permanently deformed either contacting surface.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
For those wanting to mount a 200 series tire on a C bike AND have shorter rear shocks than the stock 12.25inchers, you will have to do some cutting/grinding of the inner fender support rail. Just cut off the little "ears" as seen in this picture;

 

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How to check to see the maximum tire size to fit your bike

How to check to see the maximum tire size to fit your bike
Doesn't matter make or model.

If you are going to try and switch to a wider tire or a little taller tire then you have now , and want to see if it will fit without mods try this.
Buy some kids modeling clay (dollar-tree $1.).
Roll out a 1" thick (hotdog shape) piece , about 12 " long and press it to your tire from rim to rim, tape if necessary.


Get on your bike, and your wife on the back and roll the bike back and forth , make sure you don't run over the clay.
Then get off the bike and look where the clay is dented or scraped and measure the height from the tire to the thinnest part of the clay.

Again both of you get back on and roll the bike so the clay is at the point of closest contact and jump up and down.
Then check again to see if the clay is distorted and measure the height from the tire to the thinnest part of the clay.
Lets say that you have 25"tall tire and the dent on the clay is at the top of the tire and is just over 1/2" thick, and you double it (top and bottom) and you now can go 1" taller , or a 26" tall tire.
But if you have a tire 6"wide and the dent is on the one side and is 3/4", and no dent on the other side,, you now can go to a tire just a little smaller then 7.5" wide.
I know these are not very good examples but you can get the idea of how to find your max tire measurement.


good luck,
Horse
 

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Rear Tire Remova

Rear tire removal notes

2003 retro with V & H Big Shots; here's what works for me:

  1. Crack the axle nut with a 27mm. box-end wrench while the bike and tire is on the ground.
  2. Lift the bike on a stand and place a few 2x4 supports under the front tire, to keep the bike front from see-sawing once you pull the rear tire.
  3. Place an MC lift (or other support) under the rear tire so that you can move the rear tire slightly up and down to work the axle out.
  4. Loosen and tie-up the rear brake caliper so that it is out of the way and does not add undue stress on the brake-line.
  5. To undo the axle, it is best to place a 12 mm hex on the drive side to unscrew the nut. Then use a small broom handle or round to push the axle through. The spacer is uniform so it goes back either way.
  6. Move the supports out from under the wheel as you let it slide straight down and out from the left side. It will come free from the shaft drive which is closed and will not leak oil.
  7. Replacing the new tire is relatively the same procedure, backwards. Be sure to check the directional arrow on the tire to be sure you are facing the correct side forward.
  8. Be careful that you do not damage the rotor while transporting the wheel or, better yet, remove the rotor so that it does not get bent during the tire change.
  9. You might also wish to place a soda bottle cap (should fit in snugly, backwards) into the axle hole to keep debris from getting in.
  10. Lastly, you may wish to check the flange bearings while you have the rear tire off.
 

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I'd be interested to see if it would work on a rear tire for the 1300. I tried it but couldn't get the sidewall to compress anywhere near enough to get the tire off. His tire looks like a lower profile. I even tried using more zip ties but no go.
Didn't try a front tire.
 

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It doesn't work real good on a car tire, I tried it late last year. I just use the 'ol tire spoons to take them off. Once the wheel/tire lays in the sun for a bit and warms up. three spoons, a little lube and good old pressure they pop right off. Same for mounting except a whole lot more lube.


Dan
 
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