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Discussion Starter #1
Well today was the 1st time since returning to riding 8 years ago that i had to break out the tool kit and work on the bike on the side of the road in order to get home.

Went for my usual ride up north of Saguaro Lake and and the rear brakes locked-up immediately after i just applies both brakes when a car suddenly decided that they want to turn right. I still had plenty of room behind them but still gave it a firm application of the brakes.

After they turned i twisted the throttle and the bike didn't want to move, wrestled it to the side of the road and felt the rear disc it was very hot. Pulled the rear master cylinder cap then pried back the rear pads to free them up and was back on the road in 15 mins.

Went home and cleaned and lubed the rear caliper and bled the read brakes, i had already done it to the front about 6 days earlier. The rear caliper pins were bone dry.

This is what i get for being lazy and not doing the rear the same day i did the front. Took it for a test ride after and they seem to be fine.

At least i took care of it without having to call road side assistance. Learn from my mistake guys....
 

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Discussion Starter #3 (Edited)
Glad you got it fixed on the road and got back safe! I work on alot of car brakes here in Az and every caliper pin is bone dry, must be the heat.
Thanks,
Since you work on a lot of brakes let me ask you a question.

When bleeding the brakes, is it better to do a final "small" bleed at the end with the mast cylinder cap ON to improve the suction in the system which draws the caliper pistons back into the caliper?

iow, remove cap, bleed out the system until fresh fluid shows in the drain tube, refill the master to above the upper line, then replace cap, then bleed small amount to bring fluid to upper line in the master?

or just do it all with the cap off?

Thanks
 

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I had a similar problem with my 2013 M109R. After the first time the rear brake dragged, I replaced the pads and fluid and thought the problem was cured. It happened again. Then I took the master cylinder apart and found nothing out of order, then I cleaned the caliper and replaced the fluid. As I was putting the brakes back together I realized that I had no free play in the rear brake pedal. Once I adjusted it to give me a bit of free play, I haven't had a problem.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
I had a similar problem with my 2013 M109R. After the first time the rear brake dragged, I replaced the pads and fluid and thought the problem was cured. It happened again. Then I took the master cylinder apart and found nothing out of order, then I cleaned the caliper and replaced the fluid. As I was putting the brakes back together I realized that I had no free play in the rear brake pedal. Once I adjusted it to give me a bit of free play, I haven't had a problem.
That's interesting, i'll look into that. She rode wonderfully today and the brakes were pushed.
 

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Discussion Starter #6 (Edited)
Talking about "plan in advance"... I recently bought Rotella T6 and a K&N filter from Walmart. I Usually get the OEM filter but Walmart did not sell it directly. I've used the K&N's before so so big deal to me. I've had the stuff for a month or so for my next change around April.
Anyway, when i was checking my Ebay purchasing history I saw that I bought 3 Honda OEM filter in Oct 2019. Looked on my shelf and in a box were 2 brand new little honda black beauties OEM filters i had bought 3 at the time. Bought a bag of 10 sealing washers too.
I forgot!!! o_O The filters were in a plain box within 4 feet from my head at my Desk, behind the bike cleaners the entire time...? I had looked for filters there but ignored the odd shaped box. the shelf is full of bike stuff, almost over flowing... now i have 3 filters again...?
 

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Talking about "plan in advance"... I recently bought Rotella T6 and a K&N filter from Walmart. I Usually get the OEM filter but Walmart did not sell it directly. I've used the K&N's before so so big deal to me. I've had the stuff for a month or so for my next change around April.
Anyway, when i was checking my Ebay purchasing history I saw that I bought 3 Honda OEM filter in Oct 2019. Looked on my shelf and in a box were 2 brand new little honda black beauties OEM filters i had bought 3 at the time. Bought a bag of 10 sealing washers too.
I forgot!!! o_O The filters were in a plain box within 4 feet from my head at my Desk, behind the bike cleaners the entire time...? I had looked for filters there but ignored the odd shaped box. the shelf is full of bike stuff, almost over flowing... now i have 3 filters again...?
Ft @
And I was always told your legs are the first thing to go .
 

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Thanks,
Since you work on a lot of brakes let me ask you a question.

When bleeding the brakes, is it better to do a final "small" bleed at the end with the mast cylinder cap ON to improve the suction in the system which draws the caliper pistons back into the caliper?

iow, remove cap, bleed out the system until fresh fluid shows in the drain tube, refill the master to above the upper line, then replace cap, then bleed small amount to bring fluid to upper line in the master?

or just do it all with the cap off?

Thanks
I know you were asking someone else, but no, there is no benefit to doing this ... at all. Just do it all with the master cylinder cover off. There is a diaphragm / flexible membrane that goes between the cover and the fluid. That membrane is exposed to ventilation on the cover side (the cover is ventilated) and is sealed on the fluid side. There is more then enough flexability in that membrane that it would never provide anything in the way of suction to the brake system. The pads are never drawn away from the rotors, they are always in some contact with the rotor, only just with no pressure on them. Ride a few miles and only use the back brake. Stop and feel the front rotors, careful you don't burn your fingers. There is always some parasitic drag in a disc brake system, only it is quite inconsequential overall. One cannot "suck" the pads away from the rotor. This is why disc brake systems never need adjustment, where drum brakes did.
 

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Yes I second the bleed it and cap it idea, the pressure will be exactly the same. I do the same double planning as you! I will take new filter or 2 off your hands if you want to sell as the k and n should last forever. Maybe we can ride sometime, be safe out there!
 

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Discussion Starter #10
I know you were asking someone else, but no, there is no benefit to doing this ... at all. Just do it all with the master cylinder cover off. There is a diaphragm / flexible membrane that goes between the cover and the fluid. That membrane is exposed to ventilation on the cover side (the cover is ventilated) and is sealed on the fluid side. There is more then enough flexability in that membrane that it would never provide anything in the way of suction to the brake system. The pads are never drawn away from the rotors, they are always in some contact with the rotor, only just with no pressure on them. Ride a few miles and only use the back brake. Stop and feel the front rotors, careful you don't burn your fingers. There is always some parasitic drag in a disc brake system, only it is quite inconsequential overall. One cannot "suck" the pads away from the rotor. This is why disc brake systems never need adjustment, where drum brakes did.
Thanks Harkon for clarifying that for me, appreciate it. ?
 

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Discussion Starter #11 (Edited)
Yes I second the bleed it and cap it idea, the pressure will be exactly the same. I do the same double planning as you! I will take new filter or 2 off your hands if you want to sell as the k and n should last forever. Maybe we can ride sometime, be safe out there!
The K&N filter i was talking about is an Oil filter, just to be clear. I do Run a K&N air filter though.
Don't really want to sell any of the 3 oil filters i have, i'll use them, one less thing to buy.

Yeah, we could meet for a ride sometime, sure. which part of the Valley are you in? I'm in the east valley.
 
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