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I have a 2006 1800 C with approximately 43,000 miles. To the best of my knowledge, there has never been a valve adjustment performed on the bike. Is this something I should look into ASAP or employ the old model if it ain't broke don't fix it? The bike runs fine but I don't want to have to find myself having a catastrophic breakdown due to not doing this. Another thing worth noting is I would have to find a shop to do this because I don't have the tools nor am I mechanically inclined enough to perform such a job.
 

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This is a difficult question. One could argue if the bike runs fine after 43,000 miles without a problem why would a valve adjustment be necessary if not problems would already have occurred. On the other hand if I could do the job myself I would do it but I would never trust a shop to do it. So the decision is up to you.
 

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Do the valve adjustment.
The more miles you accrue, the more likely the valve clearance will decrease.
Somewhere about 96k miles my 1300 valve adjustment reached equilibrium on the exhaust.
The intakes were fairly stable but still required some adj.
 
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I believe this lad is a member here.

Educate yourself, a good series of videos.

 
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Discussion Starter #5
I have to keep it real and admit that even if I do get the tools I am not mechanically inclined nor confident enough to do such a job. I'm pretty comfortable with routine maintenance and things of that nature. But if I do have to do it I will have to rely on someone with more expertise than me
 

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see if your area has a group meet and greet or a maintenance day.
they do the adjustments and you watch to learn how..

2 years ago.. I shown 2 VTX owners how to do it.

its tight quarters.. but do-able.. adjust valves are easy.
my opinion.
 

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Create a new post>> searching for Canadians near your place. Maybe someone is nearby.
 

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If you find someone, I’ll supply the garage and tools. LOL

I’ve watch the videos, read the write ups and still am nervous about tackling this job. One of these days I’ll say screw it and just do it.


Sitting on my VTX making vroom vroom sounds.
 

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I had mine done once at 16k miles at a shop I knew and trusted. Now, at about 44k miles I am probably going to have the same shop do it again at either 48k or 56k.
 

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Ride down to Hackensack, NJ. I'll do them free of charge. Even have the '0' rings on the shelf. Probably the most expensive valve adjustment in VTX history but, I'll even throw in showing you how to do it. By God I mean it. I aint going anywhere. LOL.
 

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I’ve watch the videos, read the write ups and still am nervous about tackling this job. One of these days I’ll say screw it and just do it.
If you run into difficulties, load it on a trailer and have the dealer finish it. :cry::cool:
 
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I have a 2006 1800 C with approximately 43,000 miles. To the best of my knowledge, there has never been a valve adjustment performed on the bike. Is this something I should look into ASAP or employ the old model if it ain't broke don't fix it? The bike runs fine but I don't want to have to find myself having a catastrophic breakdown due to not doing this. Another thing worth noting is I would have to find a shop to do this because I don't have the tools nor am I mechanically inclined enough to perform such a job.
I have an 1800N and Have 61000kms. I just did the first valve adjustment and I barely had to adjust it. I live in edmonton, Alberta. If you are near me I will show you how to do it. Very easy.
 

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I have a 2006 1800 C with approximately 43,000 miles. To the best of my knowledge, there has never been a valve adjustment performed on the bike. Is this something I should look into ASAP or employ the old model if it ain't broke don't fix it? The bike runs fine but I don't want to have to find myself having a catastrophic breakdown due to not doing this. Another thing worth noting is I would have to find a shop to do this because I don't have the tools nor am I mechanically inclined enough to perform such a job.
Got my 2008 VTX 1800T new had to have my valves adjusted at the 800 mile check up done by Honda dealers under warranty they said it had to be done so your bike should of had at least 1 valve adjustment.
 

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You should not believe everything a dealer says!
 

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OK, here's the thing; as the exhaust valve (and intakes to a lesser degree) recede into the cylinder head it decreases the space between the pallet (business) end of the rocker arm and the tip of the valve. When that clearance reaches zero, the valve will no longer fully close. The only time the exhaust valve has a chance to shed its heat is when it is fully closed. The heat leaves valves and enter cylinder head. If clearance is insufficient the valve does not fully close and the ex valve overheats. Supeheated ex gas finds the weak spot, flaw in seal, and gas jet burns the face of the valve. Just like if you took the torch to it. Now you've got a dead (no compression) cylinder. Modern engines metallurgy is so advanced that the rate at which the valves migrate is next to nothing, but it still must be 'chased' via adjustment. 120,000 mile on my '02 18C, I've had to increase freeplay approx. .002" intake, and .003" exhaust. Bear in mind .003" is the diameter of a hair. BTW, use 'go-no-go' method. If spec is .008" use a .007" blade, and a .009" blade. Set it so the seven will fit (go) and the .009" will (not go). Beats the balls off of playing the 'shim' games on the in-line fours.
 

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I have to keep it real and admit that even if I do get the tools I am not mechanically inclined nor confident enough to do such a job. I'm pretty comfortable with routine maintenance and things of that nature. But if I do have to do it I will have to rely on someone with more expertise than me
OK, here's the thing; as the exhaust valve (and intakes to a lesser degree) recede into the cylinder head it decreases the space between the pallet (business) end of the rocker arm and the tip of the valve. When that clearance reaches zero, the valve will no longer fully close. The only time the exhaust valve has a chance to shed its heat is when it is fully closed. The heat leaves valves and enter cylinder head. If clearance is insufficient the valve does not fully close and the ex valve overheats. Supeheated ex gas finds the weak spot, flaw in seal, and gas jet burns the face of the valve. Just like if you took the torch to it. Now you've got a dead (no compression) cylinder. Modern engines metallurgy is so advanced that the rate at which the valves migrate is next to nothing, but it still must be 'chased' via adjustment. 120,000 mile on my '02 18C, I've had to increase freeplay approx. .002" intake, and .003" exhaust. Bear in mind .003" is the diameter of a hair. BTW, use 'go-no-go' method. If spec is .008" use a .007" blade, and a .009" blade. Set it so the seven will fit (go) and the .009" will (not go). Beats the balls off of playing the 'shim' games on the in-line fours.
Nice detailed explanation regarding heat disbursement and the importance of good contact between the head and seat... frankly a point I never took into consideration....
 

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Got my 2008 VTX 1800T new had to have my valves adjusted at the 800 mile check up done by Honda dealers under warranty they said it had to be done so your bike should of had at least 1 valve adjustment.

the first valve adjustment is at 8,000 or 16,000 miles IIRC.

for the OP:

There are endless threads here on doing the job, but it really isn't that difficult. I was a complete novice when I got my VTX (like never worked on a bike novice) and I had no issues with it. Once you get into the job you will see the actual adjustment part is minimal. Its moving all that BS out of the way that takes time.

One little nugget Spike told me when I started that I think was most helpful - Do the measurement at least three times on each valve before doing anything. and when in doubt do not adjust.

If its your first time and the shim is going under the tappet then there likely is not an issue.
 

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Another Quickie valve adjust guideline to add to the "overload".

MrJo won't mind.

Just to show how easy it is; easier to see without all the junk in the way.:cool:

 

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Hey guys -
Thanks for the explanations here. Really helps a guy like me, who earns my living typing on a keyboard and talking on a phone, but likes to try to do my own work on the weekends.

I just turned 10,000 miles on the 2003 1300S and am ready to do the valve check (and, while it is apart maybe bypass the fuel pump you all warn about).

My question may be a bit mundane, but I am shopping for the tools and need to make a choice. I can find the 12mm / 14 mm offset box end in a 45 and a 60 degree. Either better than the other?

I have two jobs to do. One is the VTX. The other is my 2001 CRV that the previous owner didn't keep up on the valves and I'm hearing the heads were soft (?)... anyway, I'm going to take the head off an have it done, but will do the take apart / reassemble and as Dr. D says, if I get in over my head, well I have a pickup and a car trailer and she'll haul to a shop just fine... if I was closer to Hackensack, I might take up that offer, too. Looks like the manual says I'll need the 14mm and a flat-head to do those valves.

1596205279629.png

OK, so again, looking online I can find the 12mm / 14 mm offset box end in a 45 and a 60 degree. Either better than the other? Or, rather, which one would you spend the $16 on? I don't know why I would need a whole set for $45?

thanks, fellas-
 
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