I thought the 1300 had hydraulic lifters? Does this have anything to do with the valve adjustments? I have some noise (sounds a bit like valve chatter) on the top-end of each cylinder and I am nervous. The bike has 655 miles on it. It did tend to quiet down a bit after i changed the oil and filter. I used Castrol Syntec 10W40 @ 2.5 quarts.
Valve Adjustments
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It varys. I can't believe a dealer would not have told you about this. Anyway, the cheapest way to go is to find a member on this board that is located close to you. There are many that can show you how on your first one. After that you can do them on your own. It is a very easy process. I paid maybe $250 for my first service, but I had not found this site yet. I just had a Houston local show me on my 8000 mile adjustment, and I will be doing the rest of them and keeping my money for chrome.
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Is that 2.5 quarts that you put in ??????vtxcinci said:
No hydraulic lifters on any of the VTX's. They do need to be adjusted initially @ 600 or so ( a few hundred extra miles will not matter) and then every 8K. The 1300 will never be a quiet engine though, and you will probably always hear them - nothing to worry about. I would be more worried if they were quiet.vtxcinci said:
May want to check that oil though....you should take 3.9 quarts with filter. :shock:
valves
Getting ready to have the dealer do my 600 mile service. Talked to him and he said they never check the valves until 4000 miles.Said they just listen to them and if they sound bad they will but otherwise they wait. From what I hear from you all he should check them. Right?
Getting ready to have the dealer do my 600 mile service. Talked to him and he said they never check the valves until 4000 miles.Said they just listen to them and if they sound bad they will but otherwise they wait. From what I hear from you all he should check them. Right?
Energy conserving oils are labled as such (there is a circle with energy conseving written within) and are usually 10-30 or lighter. 10-40 and heavier are usually not so labled. The hang-up is moly that is added to the EC oil and that could let your clutch slip, in theory. Multipurpose oils accepted by the major diesel engine builders seem to be the way to go, such as Shell Rotella and Rotella synthetic or Mobile Delvac One or Cheveron Delo.
I think these bikes will always need close attention to valve clearance, but especially so when new. Poisen is dead on; if they wear in enough to get so tight that they do not chatter a bit, then you will get heat damage. Get an experienced friend to help you do the first valve adjustment.
In regard to using only 2.5 quarts of oil, DO NOT just go back and add the balance of the specified amount! Check the dip stick with bike level. If its not low, you did not get all the old oil out. There are two drain bungs under the 13000 engine -- you gotta remove both.
prs
I think these bikes will always need close attention to valve clearance, but especially so when new. Poisen is dead on; if they wear in enough to get so tight that they do not chatter a bit, then you will get heat damage. Get an experienced friend to help you do the first valve adjustment.
In regard to using only 2.5 quarts of oil, DO NOT just go back and add the balance of the specified amount! Check the dip stick with bike level. If its not low, you did not get all the old oil out. There are two drain bungs under the 13000 engine -- you gotta remove both.
prs
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Get a manual and do the valves your self, it’s pretty easy. Make sure you read as many threads on the topic as you can stand (there are a lot) but some people have reported losing feeler gauges down in the heads so I made sure to bend mine so even if I did drop them (first time I did it I didn’t, but you never know) they just wouldn’t even fit down in the head. Piece of mind.
Thanks for the info. I guess I better buy some Amsoil and another filter and get it changed. I did check with the bike setting level and it appeared to be full with only 2.5 quarts that I added. So the engine should take how many quarts if it is properly drained?
I would happily pay an experienced person on this board to help me adjust my valves the first time. The stealerships are not going to just show me and they will most likely charge 80-100 dollars. Then there is the drop the bike off and pray I have it back in a week or so part.
Any takers in the Southwest Ohio area?
I would happily pay an experienced person on this board to help me adjust my valves the first time. The stealerships are not going to just show me and they will most likely charge 80-100 dollars. Then there is the drop the bike off and pray I have it back in a week or so part.
Any takers in the Southwest Ohio area?
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Properly drained it will take 3.9 qts. With the bike plumb set the dip stick in the hole do not screw it in, the oil should be at the upper mark on the stick..
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When I change my oil (hot engine) after the oil has drained from both openings I sit on the bike and lean it back and forth a few times and the balance of oil comes out. Usually do this twice. You would be amazed at how much comes out when you do this. Add 3.9 quarts to the full line. I also adjusted my valves this past weekend. All was good except the back intakes were just a tad tight. This is a PIA to do but I know 1st of all it was done and done right. Double check everything and take your time. Hey what's wrong with saving a couple hundred bucks :wink:
Bigdog
Bigdog
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As per my service manual the X should require 3.7 quarts/liters if you do a filter change with the oild change and drain with both the front and the back drain bolt.
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Gonna have to take another look because I have been putting 3.7 in.
G
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·Valves
Solid lifters will always be much noiser than hydraulics. But then again solid lifters are better performers than hydraulics at high RPMs. It's good to keep the valve clearance within spec otherwise you can do some damage to your engine. However, as one dealer once told me he never found a valve out of spec at the 600 mile point. I had my dealer check (not adjust) the clearance at 600 miles. He only charged me $35 for a "check". I often wonder if really did check it or more likely he just listened to it and made a judgement call based upon the amount of clatter he heard.
Solid lifters will always be much noiser than hydraulics. But then again solid lifters are better performers than hydraulics at high RPMs. It's good to keep the valve clearance within spec otherwise you can do some damage to your engine. However, as one dealer once told me he never found a valve out of spec at the 600 mile point. I had my dealer check (not adjust) the clearance at 600 miles. He only charged me $35 for a "check". I often wonder if really did check it or more likely he just listened to it and made a judgement call based upon the amount of clatter he heard.
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