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Discussion Starter #1
Hi all,

It's been a while since I've been on, but still enjoying riding my X!

I've been having a vibration problem that seems to be getting worst.

When I ride at a stable 30-35 mph (50-60 kph, I'm in Canada so it's metric) I get a bad vibration. It started out quite smaller last summer after I changed my tires to Metzeler and would be only slightly noticeable. This summer it's getting slowly worst. I checked the rear bearings during the winter and they seemed fine and I changed the front fork oil (stinky cr5p). I noticed the vibration also at 70 mph (110 kph). At this point I'm guessing it could be the tire treads, but I'm looking for solutions.

So far the vibration is usually 1 up, rarely 2 up. It has gotten bad enough the the spot where the gas tank meets the seat, the rubber bushing was eaten through to the bolt. If during the rattle I squeeze the tank between my legs the rattle stops, but I still feel the vibration. Naturally, now the gas tank vibrates more and is more noisy than before. I hear a vibration coming from the back that sounds as if the licence plate is vibrating also and hitting on the small arm behind it.

Bare in mind, this annoying vibration only last seconds, not minutes, because I don't stay at that speed because it's so unpleasant. I'm guessing the rubber bushing is eaten through though at 70 mph.

Does anyone have any suggestions to possible solutions? Is there something I'm missing? I'm looking for answer other than "change the tires", they're still too new to change yet. Any help or leads are greatly appreciated. Thanks :)
 

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Under-inflated tires could cause a vibration. If it started after you put on new tires, I'd start looking for something tire related. Were they balanced correctly, out of round,?
 

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check rear shock bushings known to go bad get the green poly ones for the 1800
 

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Under-inflated tires could cause a vibration. If it started after you put on new tires, I'd start looking for something tire related. Were they balanced correctly, out of round,?
If they aren't balanced correctly you could put dynabeads in the tires.
 

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You have to isolate the source first -

Your issue description is all too vague -

Get to the worst vibration mode possible -
Now pull in the clutch - what is it now?

No Different - or zero?
No different - you have to get it off the ground on solid stand to run up in 3rd gear quick throttle -
to get up to speed - pull the clutch to let rear wheel coast.


Was any of the run vibrating?
Is the tire running true by hand bumping object?

All these details have to be this detail or we're just wasting time
throwing the vac bag into the wind.

No go to the front wheel - track the trueness on object - mark any spots that bump.
How big is the air gap in that rotation?

Need to solve all of what it's not first of the easy zero cost to perform.

If it only shakes with engine power on - then use the next lower gear for that speed.
You can force this engine to do the job -
or let it do it the easy way in the gear & throttle it's asking for.

What would your car do in the same space - would it downshift by itself when adding throttle?
Then you have to comply the same.

Tires a little low on air are not going to vibrate - if anything - they are now more flexible to absorb the road BS.
 

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Tank has some interesting vibes in it. My vibrations were more related to the engine---exhaust pipe,muffler, backpressure. I made a few changes and some vibrations were horrific.


I would see if you had a fouled plug, check the vacuum lines for splits, check air box/filter and possibly the slide valve(vacuum piston) diaphragm.

I had a front Meztler that caused a wobble and this was after I installed the good roller bearings.
I noticed the issue about two months after it was installed.
I rode it until it was worn out, the replacement(not Metzler) was nice.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Thanks so far to those who answered.

To answer some comments.

while rolling downhill and the tank was vibrating, I pulled the clutch and the motor revved down to idle, same vibration and no change as long as I held that speed.

I did check the air pressure in the tires and they are spot on. I have dynabeads in both the front and back with the recommended amounts.

From everything I see so far, my impression is that it isn't from the motor. I used to have the headlight rattle and the speedo rattle, which I took care of soon after I got the bike. I could recognize those if they were to happen again.

I have tried changing gear when the vibration hits, and at 30 mph no matter what gear I'm in it will vibrate only if i'm stable at 30, or if i'm slowing down. When I speed up it doesn't seem to happen as frequently or it's because I tend like the feeling of acceleration and therefore don't stay at 30 for long.

Shak
 

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I don't believe it's in the engine.
 

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Lay my bet on the tire. Gathering what I've read, unless I'm taking it in incorrect.
Started lightly with tire change, and got only worst.

I had a Dunlop front tire, from day ONE, it had a shimmy in it. Dyna beads was added. But as time went on it got worst, and at certain speed, would
be so much out of balance, OR something. Then I got my bike guy to look into this, for he's been knowing about this since it was installed. Took it for a spin and returned. Put in shop, installed new tire, (different brand) and whooooosh. PROBLEM GONE !!!!

What was wrong with the tire. Don't know. But dyna beads would not even take that shake out. So that is my story. MIGHT BE, MIGHT NOT BE.

But that is my story on a shimmy at a certain speed story !!!!

All NEW tires are not perfect.

............. two guns
 

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I put new metz on my bike with the tire dot aligned and couldnt get it to balance without alot of weights.So I think you may have a tire to heavy on one side maybe?. I ended up turning the tire to a spot I calculated(somehow,cant remember now my logic,) and it balanced perfecto.It was either that or order another tire.One of those 50.00 tire balancers is great for balancing,or to see how close it is when useing beads.. I also like to put a jack stand right up next to the side if the tire with tire on balancer and turn tire to see if there is runout.This can be done with tire on the bike also.
 

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I also had a tire that did not balance well on the "mark". The installer moved the tire about 90 degrees
and it balanced with half the weight of the original point. MC spin balance machine used.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
I put new metz on my bike with the tire dot aligned and couldnt get it to balance without alot of weights.So I think you may have a tire to heavy on one side maybe?. I ended up turning the tire to a spot I calculated(somehow,cant remember now my logic,) and it balanced perfecto.It was either that or order another tire.One of those 50.00 tire balancers is great for balancing,or to see how close it is when useing beads.. I also like to put a jack stand right up next to the side if the tire with tire on balancer and turn tire to see if there is runout.This can be done with tire on the bike also.
I'm just curious, where would I find one of those tire balancers?
 

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you can find them at harbor freight store or online static balancer





i just installed metzlers 880 marathon
and Used Ride-on balance / sealant and No wheel weights
happy with it .
my rear wheel was off by 60 grams / 2.11 0z
and ride-on corrected it with no weights on the wheel
the front tire was close to perfect with no weights
and i guess ride-on got it just perfect
she's rolling smooth as glass



red dot on the tire marking tires light spot
should be lined up with heavy spot on the wheel
on my 1300 C . wheel heavy spot is about 5.inches in front of air valve stem

some report that their tire was heavy at the red dot instead of light
you can confirm that with a static balancer
 

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I'm just curious, where would I find one of those tire balancers?
I got balancer off ebay .I had been balancing by putting the axle in the wheel and setting each end of axle on a jack stand .it worked pretty good..I use the stick on weights.I got em and tire valve at dennis kirk when I ordered tires..EO
 

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did you ever solve the problem Shak?

Shak, I've been getting a vibration at 30mph, consistently. I need to experiment a bit and see if it's also at 70. but it's regardless of in gear, any gear, neutral, clutch in, clutch out, front brakes applied / not applied, rear brakes applied / not applied, hardbags on/ bags off, windshield on or off, light bar on or off, engine running and with engine off just coasting... I've tightened everything that can possibly move, wiggle, shimmy or shake - in the headlight bucket, speedo housing, pipes, covers, and I am in process of switching to the green 1800 shock bushings. I've worked my way from front to back, balanced with dynabeads, then again with weights, replaced fork, engine and final drive oils, seals, bushings, wheel bearings, neck bearings, and in a day or two I'll have replaced the flange bearings. I've replaced the rear rotor, checked the wheels, tires, axles, and tonight even the drive shaft, for true. The only time it DOES NOT vibrate and rattle at 30mph is when it's on the freakin jack!

Did you ever find the root cause of your 30 mph rattle? Please, oh please tell me yes. Soon I'll need a psychaitrist, not a mechanic.
 

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I'm wondering if it could be related to the drive shaft.I know on a car if there's something wrong with the drive shaft you can get some pretty weird vibrations.I have an annoying Speedo window vibrations at certain rpms,how did you remedy that?
 

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Shak last login: 08-11-2014

Drtchmp180--I put a bead of silicone around the speedo to the housing.
The housing also has a rattle issue, I used a layer of tape on the mounting screws, some use o-rings.
 

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I'm wondering if it could be related to the drive shaft.I know on a car if there's something wrong with the drive shaft you can get some pretty weird vibrations.I have an annoying Speedo window vibrations at certain rpms,how did you remedy that?
Hi Drtchmp, I pulled the drive shaft last night. It looks clean, no bends, and spines at both ends are good. At this point I just wish I could find something that didn't look right.
 

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I was on ride on sight and read that tires should be balanced as close as possible before adding ride on . also saw that ride on doesn't seal as well in tires with tubes.
 
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