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Discussion Starter #1
Hello everyone,

I am new to this forum and a new motorcycle owner. I bought a 2006 VTX 1300 that had some modifications. It has vance and hines pipes, K&M intake/filter and a factory pro carb kit installed. For the most part the bike runs very good. The throttle response is good and there is zero sluggishness. The only problem I am having comes after you blitz the throttle. Most of the time the bike stalls out. I have tried adjusting the a/f mixture and messing with the idle. My a/f mixture is currently at about 2.5 turns and I have the idle at about 900rpm. The problem is definitely worse when the bike is cool but still exists less frequently once warmed up. Here is my question? Do I have a problem worth diving into? Should I leave well enough alone? I assume it is a jetting issue but any info is greatly appreciated

Thanks
meaze
 

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Thanks for the response. I am not sure what decapped means and how would I check this?
 

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Would the main or pilot jet most likely be causing my problem? Also I now understand what decapped meant. Thanks for the link. It does not have the oem air kit on it. It has the Baron "Big Air" assembly
 

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I had similar issue. It dies if I blip the throttle especially TRue when the engine is still cold. Adjusting the idle speed help. It must not be a good solution the way I've been doing it .
 

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Would the main or pilot jet most likely be causing my problem? Also I now understand what decapped meant. Thanks for the link. It does not have the oem air kit on it. It has the Baron "Big Air" assembly
It's probably lack of fuel on the needle. You'll not know where the lack of fuel is coming from until you rejet. It could be coming from the main jet being too small or needle being too low. Need to go through tuning procedure top find out

Sent from a stone tablet and chisel
 

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Thanks for all the info. I have spent some time this morning researching exactly what I have. My main and needle are Factory pro. The main is 220 and the needle clip is set to the second from the bottom or fourth from the top. I compared it to the oem needle and it is actually longer. I expected it to be shorter. Should in not be shorter?
 

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Thanks for all the info. I have spent some time this morning researching exactly what I have. My main and needle are Factory pro. The main is 220 and the needle clip is set to the second from the bottom or fourth from the top. I compared it to the oem needle and it is actually longer. I expected it to be shorter. Should in not be shorter?
Length doesn't matter. Most of the length is at the top. The profile is thinner than stock

Need to run it hard then switch to the 225 main and do the same. Compare the results and choose the one that gives you the most power at high rpm full throttle 3rd or 4th gear

Sent from a stone tablet and chisel
 

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again thanks for all the info. I am certainly learning a lot. One question. I see a lot of setups similar to mine that say they are using the clip on the fourth ring of the needle. Does that mean fourth counting down from the top?
 

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again thanks for all the info. I am certainly learning a lot. One question. I see a lot of setups similar to mine that say they are using the clip on the fourth ring of the needle. Does that mean fourth counting down from the top?
Yes

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Discussion Starter #13
I have worked on this all weekend. I did try the 225 and I think it was worse. This is where I sit now
215 Main
58 Pilot
Stock Spring
FP Needle on 4th clip
A/F at 2.5

The bike seems to run better and the stalling after blitz is pretty much gone. I do notice that in 4-5 gears when I gradually accelerate it seems a tad sluggish. If I get on the throttle real hard it is fine. Just seems to be gradual increases. I do have a question. The spring that is on the tit...it looks like it has been cut. How long should it be?
 
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