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Discussion Starter #1
Ciao everybody from Joe Tuscany. I have need of help. I took the bike out to prepare for the warm weather and she will not start.

This is a VTX 2001 model C with no desmog, it was taken away before I bought this bike.

Ok, today I made some checks.
The battery is good and charged. I checked this thing over the winter and today.
I turn key and all lights come on.
I hear the fuel pump send fuel from fuel tank.
I press starter button and the engine turns but no start.
I check the plugs, they were a little black. I cleaned them and I see the spark in all four plugs.
I check all earth places and make the earth fix but still no starting.
I press starter with clutch pulled in, no start.
I press starter with side stand up, no start.
I disconnected fuel line to see fuel is pushed out when I press starting button, yes it is pushed.
I made no changes to this bike except a new battery. I make the connectors tight with a socket.
I take off the tank and pour out fuel that is maybe bad and put in new fuel from today, no start.
I see the air hose is good and clear and the electric plug from pump is put in well.

Things that are not original on my VTX are the pipes which are cobra.
I see one thing under the seat is the centralina bike computer is stood in vertical position in front of the battery in a compartment of its own. I see all other VTXs with the computer lies flat on top of battery. I'm see the connections of the computer are open to the air. This gives me a suspicion.

Ok friends of our bike, I am not a professional man at vehicles but maybe I can try to fix this if there is somebody to help me as a guide to find the problem. What must I do now to make my VTX start please? Ciao everybody from Joe.
 

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Things that are not original on my VTX are the pipes which are cobra.
I see one thing under the seat is the centralina bike computer is stood in vertical position in front of the battery in a compartment of its own. I see all other VTXs with the computer lies flat on top of battery. I'm see the connections of the computer are open to the air. This gives me a suspicion.<<<<<

It could have an aftermarket fuel controller. Take some photos. "Power Commander" is
not factory. It can be removed. Do you have any flashing on the "FI" light?? That could indicate the failure. Examine the wires on the ECM. Any clip-on wire could be the culprit.

A picture of the PC3 with the clip that breaks the TPS signal to the ECM.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Ciao Hans&Feet I made some fotos.
I see no flashing on the panel.
Thank you, it is the ECM.
I see no clip on wires.
I see the connector I hold in my fingers. It has no partner.
I worry the connections are exposed and they appear dirty.
I don't see and after market piece.
Grazie mille from Joe
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Normally there is a cover over the battery and the ECM is on top in a horizontal position.
The 2 pin connector is the diagnostic port. No connection. I do not see any extraneous wiring.
Rare to see the 14 pin yellow connector exposed. Usually wrapped in tape.
Do you have a voltmeter or test light???
I want you to verify if the Black/White wire has battery voltage on it when cranking.
The Bl/W wire supplies +12v battery to the ECM, Injectors, ignition coils.
Have you done anything recently??? Clean it??? The Cam position sensor connector
on the front cylinder has been dislodged from cleaning.
Also verify the Bank Angle sensor is in the correct position.
 
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Have you tried to start in Neutral???
Kick stand UP + clutch lever activated should work also.
1800 Step by Step.

Service Manual?? From Harkon.
02-04 1800C Verified 16may2020
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Ciao HansandFeet and to my other new friends. I discover something to male the bike will not start.

Today I made the start switch clean. It was dirty but now is good. Still no start.
I find my electric meter to make tests on wires.
First I think to look at the spark plugs after trying to start again. I see four spark plugs wet with the petrol.
Then I think to look at the sparks again. Lights out I see the spark plug of the front cilindro on the right side under starter button makes only a very tiny light. Ahi! Ahi! Ahi! but I see the park plug of the rear cilindro on right side makes very bright flash.
On the left side I make the same test. The spark plug of the front cilindro on left side makes a very bright flash but the spark plug of the rear cilindro only a very tiny light. Ahi! AhI Ahi!

I think I have two good spark plugs and two bad spark plugs.

Then I think to make a test. I exchange the spark plugs on the bike. I see the good plugs make a very bright spark at every cilindro and the bad plugs make only a tiny light at every cilindro.
Ahi! Ahi! Ahi! I think maybe the spark plugs are the problem. I did not expect two spark plugs to be bad.

Ok, I think I should buy four new spark plugs. These are NGK IR IFR6L 11 from 2001 with 27000 in miles.
I cannot see the NKG IR IFR6L 11 on Amazon here in Italy. Which spark plugs can I buy?

Thank you HansandFeet for all the information and the designs of wires like a plate of spaghetti. I begin to learn little by little.
Ciao from you friend Joe
 

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Normally, the OEM Iridium plugs are good for 100K mi. You could try a set of Bosch 4419's. The VTX was not made until 2002. That makes your VTX one of the first 2 years with a problem with the FPR, or fuel pressure regulator. These go bad with time, not from high miles or abuse. It is located under the left side of the fuel tank, between the cylinders or 'jugs' as we call them. It's a small thing that can fit in the palm of your hand, and is readily seen as having a small diaphragm and is attached by 2 small bolts. Pull the small hose off, if fuel comes out, it's going bad. The diaphragm dries out and cracks, allowing fuel into the cylinders, and it will wash down the walls and go into the crankcase. Pull your dipstick. Is the oil level above the top line or is there a strong smell of fuel? If so, it will cost you ~ $40 US to replace, and maybe 1/2 hr. to an hr. to change it. DO NOT ride it like this! Change the FPR, and change your oil and filter. Then run it enough to warm up the oil, park it and change just the oil a second time to get rid of all the diluted oil. A failing FPR will make it hard to start, performance will be erratic, your mileage will be in the 20's instead of the 30's.
 
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Normally, the OEM Iridium plugs are good for 100K mi. You could try a set of Bosch 4419's. The VTX was not made until 2002. That makes your VTX one of the first 2 years with a problem with the FPR, or fuel pressure regulator. These go bad with time, not from high miles or abuse. It is located under the left side of the fuel tank, between the cylinders or 'jugs' as we call them. It's a small thing that can fit in the palm of your hand, and is readily seen as having a small diaphragm and is attached by 2 small bolts. Pull the small hose off, if fuel comes out, it's going bad. The diaphragm dries out and cracks, allowing fuel into the cylinders, and it will wash down the walls and go into the crankcase. Pull your dipstick. Is the oil level above the top line or is there a strong smell of fuel? If so, it will cost you ~ $40 US to replace, and maybe 1/2 hr. to an hr. to change it. DO NOT ride it like this! Change the FPR, and change your oil and filter. Then run it enough to warm up the oil, park it and change just the oil a second time to get rid of all the diluted oil. A failing FPR will make it hard to start, performance will be erratic, your mileage will be in the 20's instead of the 30's.
I am at 104k miles with my 2003 and the original FPR. Maybe I should just have it replaced with my spring checkup.
 

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FPR--as Ranger mentioned many have failed.

First year 1800 spark plugs(SP) were too cold.
2003 and up used a SP one step hotter.
1800 production began in 2001, sold as a 2002 model(first year).
SP are in a series circuit. One single high voltage coil.
A link for bares vtx site, he has SP options.

Before you get too far, check the voltage on the Black/white wire OR check 2 pin connector.
There is a 2 pin connector from the 30 amp fuses in the left side cover near the starter relay.
Many times the FI wire connection has burned.
 
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I am at 104k miles with my 2003 and the original FPR. Maybe I should just have it replaced with my spring checkup.
Maybe, with fairly regular use, the diaphragm doesn't get a chance to dry out & crack. You're one of the lucky ones.
 
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Discussion Starter #11
Ciao everybody from Tuscany in Italy.

So my bike is from 2002, thank you RangersTomorrow4u.
Thank you, I will find Bosch 4419 plugs and look at bareass.

So the FPR is a weak part. I will make a test of FPR and oil tomorrow but I do not wait for it to fail. I think it is a wise man to buy a new FPR and spark plugs from a store in USA. Anybody recommend a store? I see Everetts Powersports has an FPR to send to Italy. I must ask also for spark plugs 4419 Bosch recommended by Rangers4u.

What is SP HansandFeet?
Yes, I have my test meter and tomorrow I look at "black/white wire OR check 2 pin connector". I will try to find the FI wire and maybe a bad wire connection there.

Ciao from Joe in Italy
 

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I did not see any mention of trying to spray fuel into the throttle body (TB). Maybe I missed it.
But if you try to spray anything flammable there while cranking, does she light on fire?
 

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Ciao Lou_VTX
Perhaps I can use carburator cleaning spray for this?
Perhaps a leak of fuel in this part?
 

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SP = Spark Plugs On a previous post>> First year 1800 spark plugs(SP) were too cold.
 

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Best thing is 'soline in an old windex bottle. The atomizer works perfectly. We move junkers around the yard with this method. Just gotta keep spraying.
 

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I did not see any mention of trying to spray fuel into the throttle body (TB). Maybe I missed it.
But if you try to spray anything flammable there while cranking, does she light on fire?
Spraying a starting fluid into the air cleaner can cause problems with the "wax valve". You do not want that. Joe, SP was abbrev. for spark plug.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Ciao everybody.
Today I take off tank to see FPG and I remove the small black tube. No fuel comes out from this part. On the frame spine I see a big connector for some wires. I open and clean and close. I return the tank with all things together. I look for the connector that might burn in left side box. I open and it is good. I clean and put back. I press start button and see no fuel exit the small black tube of the FPR. I open and return all connectors I can see, I return the tube. I see a red light flash on the panel of lights on the tank. It is red and makes nine flashes. I am idiot. Now I return air filter frame with a connector for sensing. I see the black tube there has no band to hold it strong so I put one there. I return air box. I think I must take the electric meter and make a test of the wires on centralina bike computer for fuel. Sorry everybody I forgot the name of this part. First I take the coffee and look hard at bike.
I return all SP in pots and press start button. She starts! first slow then full sound. I do not know what happened to make her start. I let motor run for ten minutes. Tomorrow I try again.
Now I look for wax valve. I never hear this thing.
Ciao from Joe
 

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Ciao everybody.
Today I take off tank to see FPG and I remove the small black tube. No fuel comes out from this part. On the frame spine I see a big connector for some wires. I open and clean and close. I return the tank with all things together. I look for the connector that might burn in left side box. I open and it is good. I clean and put back. I press start button and see no fuel exit the small black tube of the FPR. I open and return all connectors I can see, I return the tube. I see a red light flash on the panel of lights on the tank. It is red and makes nine flashes. I am idiot. Now I return air filter frame with a connector for sensing. I see the black tube there has no band to hold it strong so I put one there. I return air box. I think I must take the electric meter and make a test of the wires on centralina bike computer for fuel. Sorry everybody I forgot the name of this part. First I take the coffee and look hard at bike.
I return all SP in pots and press start button. She starts! first slow then full sound. I do not know what happened to make her start. I let motor run for ten minutes. Tomorrow I try again.
Now I look for wax valve. I never hear this thing.
Ciao from Joe
My friend, Chuck_VTX_F has a 2005 F model, with 96K on it since he bought it new. He is a member here, an infrequent post-er, but has done everything to his bike, and was a former Honda bike mechanic for many years. He knows his mechanics. He replaced the wax valve 2 summers ago. You might send him a PM and mention my name that I sent you.
 

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Hi Joe, welcome. Why would you care about the WAX valve? It's only there to allow a cold engine to idle properly. The valve has a bi-metal spring inside that controls a disc that allows fresh air to bypass around the throttle plates. The hot coolant causes the spring to contract. Once the engine is up to temperature the WAX valve is out of the loop. My cam position sensor gave me a problem one time. The engine would crank but not start. Once I cleaned the connector the engine fired right up. The nine flashes on your dash would indicate the sensor (IAT) in your air cleaner is not connected. The engine should still run however. Good luck
 

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I believe C-Spike was against spraying carb cleaner because it may affect the Moly coating in the throttle body.

Wax valve aka Cold Start high idle device. Covered in the Step by Step 1800 board.
Crud/corrosion can prevent operation.
Link to wax valve if interested.
 
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