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Discussion Starter #21
The neutral light comes on and I assume goes off when you activate the shift lever? Do you feel any resistance from the gearbox when upshifting or downshifting? There are no synchros in this box so it's usually clunky. Most importantly are you getting any movement of the speedo when in gear with engine running and letting out the clutch? With the bike "in gear", engine off, does the bike roll easily? My questions are meant to target the chain of components that gives your bike forward motion.
The neutral light does turn off when I shift into gear and she shift peg pivots as it always did but there is no acceleration. The bike rolls normally with the engine off, in gear and in neutral. Had to push it about a mile.
 

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The neutral light does turn off when I shift into gear and she shift peg pivots as it always did but there is no acceleration. The bike rolls normally with the engine off, in gear and in neutral. Had to push it about a mile.
That's your workout for the week:oops:
 
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Sounds like you may have sheared the clutch basket rivets off
Can that happen and, when started, not have it sound like something is coming apart inside, or can it be that stealthy?
 
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Some never know they have a broken rivet until they change the clutch.

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I didn't know that. Well then that is a definite likelihood. Luckily not a tough fix. Not especially cheap, but not difficult to do.
 
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Have you been drag racing or wide open throttle and banging the gears???
 

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6k miles.
If your not beating it up than rivets last a long time.
I would go with the clutch hydraulic system.
It is easier to do that than the clutch.
 

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6k miles.
If your not beating it up than rivets last a long time.
I would go with the clutch hydraulic system.
It is easier to do that than the clutch.
It is, and from the sounds of it the fluid is long past due for a change anyway. Once he gets the slave cylinder off, it should become apparent.
 

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Crack open the bleed valve on the slave cylinder. If the fluid is pressurized releasing the pressure should engage the clutch. That test would assure you it is a hydraulic problem. If the piston in the slave is stuck removing the slave cylinder should have the same result.
 
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I dont believe anyone has covered this. I bought an 02 1800c with 12,000 miles, had been sitting over 3 years. I had clutch issues. I did EVERYTHING. Nothing fixed it. I found out there is a very tiny return port in the bottom of the master cylinder. It is hidden under a small round cover. If it is plugged, the fluid does not return, and clutch stays disengaged. It takes a very fine needle,wire, welding tip cleaner to poke it clean. When working, you can see fluid return to the cylinder when working the lever. PUT A TOWEL ANYWHERE YOU DONT WANT FLUID TO GO, TANK, ETC. After i did this to mine i have not had a bit of trouble.
 

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I am trying to post a pic but its not working. But there is a picture on google, search " Honda master cylinder return port". Thete will be an image for a Honda Cx, i believe it is. Master is the same and you can see the cover. Port is below. Hope this helps
 

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181773


There we go. Now you can see the port cover. Remove most fluid and poke that thing clean.I did mine without removing from the bike. Like i sad, just cover everything sensitive to brake fluid JUST IN CASE.
 

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Discussion Starter #37
I am trying to post a pic but its not working. But there is a picture on google, search " Honda master cylinder return port". Thete will be an image for a Honda Cx, i believe it is. Master is the same and you can see the cover. Port is below. Hope this helps
Thanks! I bled and replaced the clutch fluid today but stripped the seat bolt trying to take it off to jump the battery 🙄 FML gotta drill out the bolt tomorrow
 
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