[Chicago-Spike]

Burnouts, riding long term with a slipping clutch

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk

 

[Buddyson]

Burnouts, riding long term with a slipping clutch

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk

Must be riding with the slipping clutch. Never did a burnout

 

[Chicago-Spike]

Pulling a trailer

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk

 

[Harkon]

Slipping causes that. Nothing else can. If you look where you can see the steels, they are blue. That means too much heat, there is no other cause for that. As Spike said, with that much heat the friction plates glaze over and won't ever lock up after that. Things just get worse from there. You need steels, friction plates and springs. Don't forget springs or you'll be starting over in a while.

I'm not sure what, but I recall if the last friction plate is not offset that causes problems. It might be possible that over time, that caused enough slipping to glaze the plates and then it was all down hill. Spike has a better memory, he'll be able to share more on the last plate offset.

 

[Buddyson]

OK, so this bike has been pouring me thru the ringer! Changed out the clutch plates. Sheared one of the bolt head off and had to order a new one that took a month. Got it all back together tonight.

Problem is, when I shift into first, the bike automatically starts moving. The clutch is fully squeezed and the bike still moves forward! Any ideas gentlemen?

 

[Sojourner]

Problem is, when I shift into first, the bike automatically starts moving. The clutch is fully squeezed and the bike still moves forward! Any ideas gentlemen?

Who's clutch friction plates are you using? Did you soak them in motor oil overnight? The steels too? MTC friction plates are notorious for sticking especially when new. The bike will jump forward but usually releases right away. Did you try bleeding the clutch line yet? Start there. If you assembled the clutch pack dry then you have to backtrack.

 

[Hans&Feet]

You should have checked the pressure plate travel before bolting the cover in place.
Clutch slave piston, rod, bearing in the pressure plate..
A failure somewhere.

 

[Buddyson]

Who's clutch friction plates are you using? Did you soak them in motor oil overnight? The steels too? MTC friction plates are notorious for sticking especially when new. The bike will jump forward but usually releases right away. Did you try bleeding the clutch line yet? Start there. If you assembled the clutch pack dry then you have to backtrack.

They're MTC. I soaked them for actually 2 days. I bled the clutch line beforehand and changed the clutch fluid. Maybe I need to bleed it again. Air bubbles possibly in the line?

 

[Buddyson]

You should have checked the pressure plate travel before bolting the cover in place.
Clutch slave piston, rod, bearing in the pressure plate..
A failure somewhere.

I checked the slave piston, rod and bearings before changing the plates. Cleaned and lubricated them...

 

[Hans&Feet]

Pressure plate travel to release the clamping pressure on the clutch pack.

 

[Buddyson]

Pressure plate travel to release the clamping pressure on the clutch pack.

Oh Damm. Didn't even think of that 🙄

 

[Tar Snake]

Sorry to here about your dad's issues. If the bike has been sitting for awhile that could be one of your issues. Here is what I would do, order a new clutch off the web and replace it. Bareasschoppers, has excellent details on how to replace it. If you aren't mech. inclined find a shop for the job. You could rent a mc trailer from U-Haul to tow it. I would incur the cost to have to not worry about the bike letting you down out in the boonies.

 

[Sojourner]

while you're in there measure the thickness of the stack with a vernier caliper then do the same with the old stack you removed. Most clutch companies offer steels of various thicknesses. The stacks should just about match .

 

[fastspek]

Put the bike in first or second gear but don't start. Just roll back and forward while pulling the clutch. Normally this should stop the sticking of the plates. If it works put the bike in neutral and start. Then put in first gear and the bike should not move. If it does open the case and check the pressure plate travel like Hans said. I have a MTC clutch so I know the plates will stick at cold start when they are new but this disappeares after about 10,000 miles.

 

[jslitke]

The neutral light comes on and I assume goes off when you activate the shift lever? Do you feel any resistance from the gearbox when upshifting or downshifting? There are no synchros in this box so it's usually clunky. Most importantly are you getting any movement of the speedo when in gear with engine running and letting out the clutch? With the bike "in gear", engine off, does the bike roll easily? My questions are meant to target the chain of components that gives your bike forward motion.

Not sure if you all are still on here... a lot of older posts. I would be interested in any troubleshooting tips. I am having the exact same issue. Just bought it. Bled brakes and clutch. Replaced clutch steels and friction plates for good measure. Still when it gets hot it starts slipping and then ends up getting to a point where I can't get it moving when releasing the clutch handle. If I let it totally cool down it goes back to normal.

 

[Sojourner]

Not sure if you all are still on here... a lot of older posts. I would be interested in any troubleshooting tips. I am having the exact same issue. Just bought it. Bled brakes and clutch. Replaced clutch steels and friction plates for good measure. Still when it gets hot it starts slipping and then ends up getting to a point where I can't get it moving when releasing the clutch handle. If I let it totally cool down it goes back to normal.

Rebuild the clutch master cylinder. It's possible the return port is getting plugged by debris still in the line possibly from the seal. Not expensive and easy to do.