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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
You guys know that black hose that's connected to the internal fuel pump on the vtx 1800r that's a total pain in the ass because when you disconnect it, fuel spills out.. well I want to put a quick disconnect on mine so the tank process will be easier but I'm not sure which size disconnect to buy. Could you guys please help me out lol. 1/4, 5/16, 3/8 what? Lol 馃槀 thanks in advance
 

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Most things like this can be located on the How To;Step-by-Step board;
Like How To add a quick disconnect
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Most things like this can be located on the How To;Step-by-Step board;
Like How To add a quick disconnect
Yeah those are for the external fuel pump. Mine is internal. It's different.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Yeah those are for the external fuel pump. Mine is internal. It's different.
Most things like this can be located on the How To;Step-by-Step board;
Like How To add a quick disconnect
I know how to add one, that's super easy. I just won't sure what size quick disconnect to buy.. there's three diff sizes and I don't want wait on the wrong one. I searched for the hose size but couldn't find anything.. looked up the part on partzilla but it doesn't say what size hose it is so I still won't sure which one to buy. Doing the modification is easy as pie.. I do all of my own work. These vtxs are super simple.
 

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2007 VTX 1800N (N1), Vance and Hines (baffled), stock intake, 23K miles and growing
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Hate to say it, but this looks like you will have to pull the fuel line off and measure the diameter. I got mine from Gotham cycles (via the jungle website, which I hate, but I had to) and the chrome fits nicely. Others have used the plastic kind with minimal issue. No matter which one you use, make sure the o-rings are fuel resistant.
 

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I have a C which has an internal fuel pump and am not familiar with the R but I believe bikes with internal fuel pumps should be the same in this respect.
I am not sure which hose you are referencing in your picture.
Gas Helmet Automotive lighting Personal protective equipment Wood

The hose connection in the red box is the return (low pressure) and in my experience, doesn't need a disconnect, unless you remove it while the tank is extremely full.
If the tank has only a small amount of fuel in it no fuel spills from this return line on my C.
The hose connection in the red box is the feed (high pressure), at least on my C there is no need for a disconnect. When disconnected a few drops will come out but that's it.
I had the tank on and off of my C probably a dozen times at least recently while flushing/changing the coolant and didn't spill more then a few drops of fuel total and I dont have disconnects.
That said the article you are referencing with your picture has a link at the bottom to info on disconnects.
from the 02-04 link:
"I do suggest getting the fittings with shut-off valves on both the male & female ends so there is no leaking of fuel from either end when disconnected.
You can just do the return line or like I and several others have done do both return and output fuel lines.
Every time you undo the Allen bolt on the fuel tank or fuel rail you should use new aluminum crush washers, if you don't, after a few times of reuse they will probably leak if only torqued to the OEM spec of 19ft lb at the tank and 9ft lb at the fuel rail (the fuel rail banjo is the one that usually leaks).
For the return hose use the 1/4" and for the output hose 3/8" Get some good SS hose clamps for the barbed ends.
Here is link with pic of "How To Do" for the return line the output line is the same only a bigger hose. "
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
That's a no pressure return hose, most just clamp it with a hose clamp pliers
Yeah but when you take it off the fuel comes out of the hole in the tank side and instead of plugging it every time I was just gunna run a bit of hose off the end and then put the disconnect fittings on it so I could just snap it on and off each time. So much simpler than using clamps to clamp it off.
 

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Yeah but when you take it off the fuel comes out of the hole in the tank side and instead of plugging it every time I was just gunna run a bit of hose off the end and then put the disconnect fittings on it so I could just snap it on and off each time. So much simpler than using clamps to clamp it off.
Your last sentence says it. I also agree with those who say that with a minimum of fuel in the tank, say, just after the fuel light comes on, fuel loss would be minimal. I purchased a plastic d/c from Aerostich, a number of years ago. It has Viton O-rings that fuel won't deteriorate or leak. A thumb and forefinger squeeze pops it off, and it is easy to snap together. It was around $20 back then. They sold 2 sizes at the time, I don't remember which I got, but you could always order 1 of each and send back what you can't use.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Your last sentence says it. I also agree with those who say that with a minimum of fuel in the tank, say, just after the fuel light comes on, fuel loss would be minimal. I purchased a plastic d/c from Aerostich, a number of years ago. It has Viton O-rings that fuel won't deteriorate or leak. A thumb and forefinger squeeze pops it off, and it is easy to snap together. It was around $20 back then. They sold 2 sizes at the time, I don't remember which I got, but you could always order 1 of each and send back what you can't use.
Yeah dude I seen the little quick disconnect on a gas line mod and was like man why hadn't I thought of this forever ago? I've taken so many cars apart at the junkyard strip shop (worked as a car stripper for almost 5 years) and have unclipped so many of those plastic little connectors in my time there and it just never occured to me. But while Im doing simple affordable modifications like magnetic drain plugs and whatnot.. may as well do that one while I'm at it. They got these cool red plastic ones made specifically for motorcycles and atv fuel lines for 13 bucks I forgot which brand. The metal ones are almost 70 bucks! No way in hell brother.
 
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