Honda VTX Forum banner

1 - 6 of 6 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
75 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
Just wanted to share my experience on doing the work myself as opposed to taking my motorcycle to a shop...

I was at 8100 miles on my X so it was definitely time for the valve check. My clutch slave cylinder was leaking so I had to replace that. I also went ahead and did the desmog/pair valve removal.

Valves:
I followed the directions from the bareass choppers website. Great help! I never knew I was so OCD until I started on my valves. All of my valves were in the tolerance spec but I went ahead and adjusted them the exact proper spec. My rear exhaust valve was close enough in spec that I didn't have to mess with it.. thank goodness. I was surprised how close they all were after reading other posts on the 8000 mile inspection. To anyone looking to do the adjustment yourself... do the desmog, get the proper tools, and have lots of patience, especially if you have thick hands like I do.

Slave Cylinder:
Unfortunately the previous owner never replaced the clutch fluid in the system, so it became real old and dark, which in turn messed up the slave cylinder and caused a slow leak. I bought a new assembley from Honda direct line parts. It was extremely easy to replace and since I bought a bleed vacuum from O'Reilys, the bleed process was painless. The clutch feels firm, smooth and it responds nicely.

Desmog:
My bike is a CA model, so it has a few extra things to take off than the 49 state model. Following the Bareass Direction and using the block-off plates with the dimples, this mod was painless as well. Only requires patience. This was also a great time for me to tighten up the throttle cable to my liking since the airbox was off. I will say that after this was done, I have noticed a slightly deeper exhaust note, but the de-acceleration "pop" was roughly the same. With that being said, I've always thought that I've always had a decel "gurgle" instead of a "pop."(still have stock exhaust) The previous owner did leave me with an installed PCIII and a map could very likely be loaded into it. Haven't looked into that yet.


I Took the bike around the block and so far everything checks out so far. When spring finally decides to show up, I'll go for a longer ride. The bike sounds fine, no obvious rattles or leaks, so no errors on the desmog. The Valves are noticeably quieter, yet when the bike warmed up I could still hear them(expected), yet quieter than before. Clutch lever response feels next to brand new.

My next adventure is installing V&H Big Shots with the Thunder Monster baffles. After TONS of research I'm almost positive that combination will give me the sound I'm looking for.

I recommend everyone do their own wrenching as long as you're comfortable with it. This was a lot of fun for me. I know it's done right and it saved me money.

Feel free to ask and questions. Hope I didn't ramble on too much.
Have a Good one!



Daniel
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,745 Posts
Just wanted to share my experience on doing the work myself as opposed to taking my motorcycle to a shop...


I recommend everyone do their own wrenching as long as you're comfortable with it. This was a lot of fun for me. I know it's done right and it saved me money.

Daniel
nice write up & good advice ...
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
8,540 Posts
When you did the desmog/ pair removal, did you put a couple flat washers under the acorn nuts before tightening to 17 ft/ lbs.? You could do this when you get your new pipes, also get new exhaust gaskets when changing. Run it 100 miles, then retorque. Might make a diff. on your gurgle. Remember, they're supposed to sound like a ticked-off sewing machine.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
75 Posts
Discussion Starter #4
I haven't touched my exhaust yet, if those are the acorn nuts you're talking about.. I plan on getting new gaskets etc.. when the new pipes go on.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
31 Posts
Hey Daniel, looking over your thread I see where you replaced your clutch slave. I to have that same problem, and it looked like replacing the slave was no big deal. I was kinda worried about the bleeding process but see that you bought a bleeder from Orileys auto. Was it really that simple as I may rethink letting the shop replace it. Hate to leave it with them for days on end.
Thank
DonC
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
75 Posts
Discussion Starter #6
Hey Daniel, looking over your thread I see where you replaced your clutch slave. I to have that same problem, and it looked like replacing the slave was no big deal. I was kinda worried about the bleeding process but see that you bought a bleeder from Orileys auto. Was it really that simple as I may rethink letting the shop replace it. Hate to leave it with them for days on end.
Thank
DonC
It was much easier than I originally thought. Most of the head scratching stories appear to come from those who tried it using the gravity method, which is obviously proven to potentially be a lengthy process compared to the vacuum system. I played it safe and went with the bleed kit. I replaced the cylinder and bled the clutch line all in about 30 minutes. Zero issues. I did have tiny air bubbles come in from around the bleed fitting where the hose attached (threw me for a loop), but that's to be expected from what I hear. Just be sure you don't let the master cylinder go dry during the bleed.

The test ride felt great afterwards!
 
1 - 6 of 6 Posts
Top