[midsm]

I'm adding a power supply for GPS (automotive not ZUMO) plug in (12v socket & USB with in-line fuse) and want to power it through my headlight bucket and connect to the spotlight connector (I don't have spotlights). On that connector are black/brown, green and blue wires; on the power supply are black and black/white stripe wires.
I wanted to confirm which wires connect with which; black/brown to black and green to black/white stripe? Are the Tap-in (quick tap no stripping) wire connectors ok to use?
Thanks.

 

[Hans&Feet]

Black/Brown is +12v
Green is Ground.
My method on connection is to tin the leads with solder and flatten them to make it work like a male blade wire terminal.(using opt fog light connector)
If the wire in small then strip more and make a "U" and tin.
Works for me.
Tap-in connectors are not recommended for anything.
They score the wire strands which leads to wire breaking when subject to vibration/movement.

Black wire and black/white stripe I has no suggestion on polarity.

 

[TennX]

While Hans is the resident electrical guru....I will say this, I used the tap in connectors years ago and mine have held up...If I wasn't lazy and a do over I would solder everything....IMHO you should install a aux. fuse box and keep all electrical addons outside the bikes system...good luck

 

[Chicago-Spike]

You already have spot lights on the headlight circuit. Adding more power draw to this will only increase the risk of the start button frying out on you. If you do this, I would at least add a relay as seen on the How To board under the 1800 Electrical thread.

 

[Hans&Feet]

He said::
want to power it through my headlight bucket and connect to the spotlight connector (I don't have spotlights).


Black/Brown is the speedo/tail light/running lights/license plate lights/optional fog light connector circuit.

 

[Yaesu]

I agree that splices and taps need to be soldered. I often will tape over the joint, and then use either liquid tape or PVC cement (for PVC pipes) over the tape to better seal the connection and keep the tape from unraveling. I can't imagine that a GPS unit would draw enough current overload the aux. lighting circuit. I suspect that the inrush of current when the lights are turned on will be much greater than the GPS amperage requirement.

 

[VTX1800NR]

:arrow:

:yikes:

 

[enduro]

I don't know what your "12v socket & USB" looks like. My main concern like Hans mentioned above is that the opt fog connector is a shared circuit on a 10A line. No problem with the gps at probably around 1A. But if by 12V socket you mean like a cigarette lighter and you want to run something off it other than a gps there is a good chance you'll blow the bike 10A fuse.

When I mount a 12V receptacle I want to be sure I can run my air compressor and I figure that needs a dedicated 10A line, of course this could be used for a gps too since they won't be used at the same time. On trips it is not uncommon to need to add a couple pounds in the tires every couple of days. You don't want to ride somewhere because then the tires are warm, you want to do it before you leave in the morning. You also don't want it on a keyed voltage because then all your other electrics are on while you are running the compressor, a sure way to kill the battery. Also with the tail lights and speedo powered on that line you'll probably pop the 10A fuse with the compressor.

So bottomline, only gps no problem, but if you ever intend to run something like a compressor off the line too then better to go direct to battery on its own line. It will always be hot and I prefer that on an accessory outlet.