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no headlight and no start. the starter switch is bad. the switched needs to be removed and cleaned and also the guides for the shunt need to be fixed. the overheating of the switch melts the plastic guides and prevents the shunt from sliding up and down. it sticks in the down position and stops the headlight ans starter from working. when you get the switch working again you should put your headlight on a relay to remove the power draw through the switch.

 

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you can remove the shunt and spring and use a 1/16 drill bit to hone the guides. this got me by for a long time
 

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If that switch is burnt then you absolutely have something wired wrong.
if you have accessory highway lights or something that draws a lot of power (radio) connected to the wires in the headlight bucket that is why it burnt up. Do not connect any accessories to the bike wiring . All accessories should have a seperate wire running from the battery threw a relay.
If you just replace the switch it will burn up again.

Donut

the switch issue isnt just people adding stuff. i dont have any extras and mine melted
 

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Those statements are just wrong. Blanket statements like that usually are. THE ONLY thing going thru the switch is the headlight power line, so unless you wire into the headlight power any other wires in the bucket are not going to affect the switch operation. Nothing else goes out other than the headlight when you hit the switch so therefore nothing else is going thru the switch. Just look at the electrical diagram its only the headlight power. In addition, the headlight power line is fused at 10A, I don't know of anyone that adds directly to the headlight line and also ups the fuse to compensate for the addition. That switch is on a 10A fused line so by safety design standards the switch would be required to handle at least 10A.

The issue is cycles. Everything electro/mechanical has a life cycle. Everyone knows when you throw a switch you get a little arc, a light switch at home, an electric drill, just disconnect the battery in the dark and touch the terminal with the cable and even the odo holding current will give a little snap. You do this enough times at several amps and the surface of the connection erodes away, continuing the surface erosion you end up with a smaller conduction path, at some point the surface area can't handle the current and now you have excess heat caused by the resistance, current trying to conduct thru too small of an available path.

Regarding the relays, not everything requires a relay which is why many electrical accessories don't have them. It all comes down to what end function you desire and then design it soundly to meet that function. Other than the engine electrical requirements everything else is considered an electrical accessory on a vehicle. For example our horn works absolutely perfectly without a relay, but a lot of vehicles have a horn relay, put a stebel on an x and it is a good idea to do it through the relay. Why doesn't our horn have a relay? because the horn switch is adequate to handle the current of our little squeaker so a relay is not required. Stebel startup current is pretty high so you don't want to run it thru the stock switch.

I could give a lot of examples where a relay is desirable and where it isn't. For simplicity a relay is a switch and in automotive uses its primary purpose is to act as a switch, either as the main switch or to protect (bypass) a smaller switch. If you don't want/need it switched or the existing switch is adequate in size then a relay is not needed.

A CB radio for example. I wouldn't want that switched through a relay because I want to be able to still use it if I'm broke down on the side of the road without turning the key on. And it doesn't need another switch since it already has its own correct rated switch built in. Similar with my accessory power port, I don't want it switched because I plug the tender in there, I've used it a few times with my air compressor for flats, and I run my computer through an inverter off it when I'm in the tent. It is direct fused to battery.
the start switch is not adequate thats why i recommended the relay. and thats why they melt
 

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Lots of folks with stock lighting/electrical accessory set ups have had starter switch failure. It's not always indicative of something being wired wrong. I think it's just a weak/poor switch from the factory.

EDIT: It seems to be a hit or miss problem too. Some have it and some don't. I'd be exceedingly interested to see if the bikes are from a certain production run or something to that effect, where the batch of switches used is lower quality or has some defect in the manufacturing process.
i just got a new switch and the material the contacts are made of is different
 

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How much wire is on the new ones? Or does it make up in the switch housing?

the new switch is comes as the entire control housing the kill switch start switch clam shell housing wires for the brake switch and the harness the goes into the headlight bucket
 
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