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no headlight and no start. the starter switch is bad. the switched needs to be removed and cleaned and also the guides for the shunt need to be fixed. the overheating of the switch melts the plastic guides and prevents the shunt from sliding up and down. it sticks in the down position and stops the headlight ans starter from working. when you get the switch working again you should put your headlight on a relay to remove the power draw through the switch.]

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:agree: 100%. This should fix it. If it is something else and this didn't fix it, don't worry this needs to be done anyway.
 

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the start switch is not adequate thats why i recommended the relay. and thats why they melt
:agree: Even with just the headlight on the circuit, mine burned up with only 7k on the bike. The headlight alone, I think draws 6 or 7 amps. With a solid state relay installed, the switch will draw for less than 1 amp. Probably in the neighborhood of 0.1 amp. This should never burn up. You could light up a christmas tree and not affect the switch.
 

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In my wiring diagram, 2003 electronic copy, the blue wire (BU) that goes to the fog lamp comes from the hi beam. Can you look on your diagram to find out where your blue wires goes. I think it might be the same. In which case, this does go through the start switch.

Shown is the complete power loop back to the battery of the 3 pin accessory connector located in the headlight bucket and the starter switch is also circled. So explain in electrical terms how it is possible to connect something to that conector in the headlight bucket and have it affect the starter switch in any way or even how it could affect any of the wiring since that line is fused.

In this post alone a number of common posters mentioned their switch has burned up even with nothing extra connected to it. So when a switch burns up, how is it that you determined the fault is with the lightbar on the 3 pin connector unrelated to the start switch in any way and not just another switch getting burned up from normal use.

 
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