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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I finally just got around to installing the Hick A/F Screw on my bike. What a pita to get the old one out. Thank goodness I did not lose the washer or o-ring!

Here is my question. I have the stock air box and bub jug huggers on the bike. I really have no idea where the needle was set prior to taking it out (It was hard enough getting it out, I couldn't turn it in to see where it was set!). The stock needle seemed to turn out fairly hard yet when I put the Hick needle in seat it and turn it out 2 1/2 turns it seems really loose. Does 2 1/2 turns sound about right for a starting point with my set up? Will the needle stay in place once I have everything put back together? It seems at 2 1/2 turns it is about to fall out of the carb.
 

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Mine is not tight but it's tight enough to not move around you should be OK as long as it's not wiggling aroung in there. I would start at 2-1/2 turns and then go from there. Seems to work for most on here.
 

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Hey Question here....Is it not all the way in then 2 1/2 out ?? Just thought I would ask.
:oops:
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
I checked 2 or 3 times to make sure I had it seated all the way, but at the same time being careful not to turn it in too tight. I have it all put back together now just trying to find a way to adjust the screw while the bike is running so I can fine tune it.
 

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I still use the stock A/F screw (just slotted it with a dremel). At first, it was a pain to get out so I could slot it, but then it moved very easily, almost too easily. It seats eventually (with the stock anyhow). I make minor adjustments here and there with a long screwdriver.

Hey, the simple thing to do is to just adjust the A/F even out to 2.5 turns. But if you really fine tune the carb, you'll end up changing the jets before going far over 2 turns. It just works better that way. Usually you're compensating for something if you just tune with the A/F screw. However, since you still have your stock airbox on, I think you should be able to just make minor changes with the A/F screw.

Stock is about 1.75 turns, I think?? You shouldn't need much more than that for new pipes and stock airbox.

Sorry for my long article in response.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Thanks for all the info. I didn't get a chance to take it for a ride and check the plugs but it definitely seems to be idling much better. I could never start it without the choke and now it fires right up. Also before opening it up a little if I revved the throttle and let off the bike would sometimes stall or at least the revs would come way down and then creep back up. Now it seems fine when I rev it. I will leave it at 2 1/2 for a while and see how it runs.

Thanks cybrhick for another great product! I told a local bike shop about this screw. They have had some problems jetting bikes with Hyperchargers. I know they purchased at least one. Hopefully they will be buying some more.

Todd
 

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haveme1 said:
Hey Question here....Is it not all the way in then 2 1/2 out ?? Just thought I would ask.
:oops:
Don't think I am wrong on this but the way I understand it is that you turn it until it seats (starts to get tight) THEN you back it out 2 1/2 turns. At least this is what I did and my bike ran fine but just turned it back in 1/8th to fine tune even more. I wouldn't feel good about over tightening it all the way in, if you do you might be in for a real surprise. :?
 

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toadleyb said:
I finally just got around to installing the Hick A/F Screw on my bike. What a pita to get the old one out. Thank goodness I did not lose the washer or o-ring!
Isn't there suposed to also be a spring in there?
 
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