I've lately been having a problem with my stock VTX solenoid sticking closed while trying to start the bike. It is an intermittent problem, but appears to be more prone to stick after the bike has sat for a while and/or I inadvertently try to start it with too many accessories on (high beam, running lights, etc). I'm guessing that the battery voltage has dropped slightly and the starter is drawing way too many amps and 'sticking' the contacts together when I try to start it. The soleniod does not 'click' like with a near dead battery, it gets stuck in the closed position and NOTHING will turn it off (ignition switch, key, kill switch, kickstand, clutch in gear, etc) short of disconnecting the battery cable. Well, as you can imagine, I got tired of that pretty fast, as it will quickly discharge the battery (if it doesn't start) or ruin a starter (if it does start).
I've done all the usual (checked grounds, cleaned the starter switch, etc) and a replacement stock VTX solenoid didn't help, so I replaced the stock solenoid with a Standard Ignition SS608 solenoid. Its a heavy duty model, made for some GMC and Dodge V-8 trucks and cost $28.68 (online on Amazon) to $49.28 (at Car Quest).
It will bolt right up to the stock location, but one switch connection (for one small wire) sits 'dangerously' close to the rear side cover tab. It's not really an issue, since you can simply hook the little green (ground) wire up to it from the starter switch, but I'm too anal for that. Consequently, you can also reposition the solenoid with a thick washer behind the rear (right) mounting tab on the solenoid, or 'tweek it' by bending the tabs slightly till it sits where you want it (that's what I ended up doing).
The holes in the stock battery cable lugs have to be enlarged slightly to 5/16". (Use a Unibit so as not to snag a regular drill bit into the soft copper lug and twist up your cables.) The battery cable lugs can be installed without unbending them out of the stock L shape (with a little ingenuity), so they can be returned to stock, later, if you want (it doesn't look as neat, but its easily reversible). You may also want to make up short jumper wires for the thin starter button wires. This is because you have to convert from the female bullet connection of the stock VTX wiring to the round eyelet connection on the new solenoid. You could just cut off and replace the stock female bullet connections with eyelet connections, but again, I do not like premanently altering any stock wiring. Just make up little 1" pigtails with the eyelets on one end and the male bullets on the other - they're all stock electrical sizes and plug right in (and out). Connect up all your wiring and reconnect the battery cable at the battery last. Of course, you did disconnect the battery cable at the battery before you started messing with all of this crap - Sparky.
It appears to be working perfectly and solved my problem. It'll now start with all accessories turned on after sitting in the driveway for 10-15 minutes with the engine off (BTW - I have LOTS of accessories). Yeah, yeah, that's the nature of intermittent electrical problems -I know only too well, but if you are experiencing the same problem I described above - it's certainly an option to try. I'll post if my starting gremlins reappear. Good luck.
Todd
I've done all the usual (checked grounds, cleaned the starter switch, etc) and a replacement stock VTX solenoid didn't help, so I replaced the stock solenoid with a Standard Ignition SS608 solenoid. Its a heavy duty model, made for some GMC and Dodge V-8 trucks and cost $28.68 (online on Amazon) to $49.28 (at Car Quest).
It will bolt right up to the stock location, but one switch connection (for one small wire) sits 'dangerously' close to the rear side cover tab. It's not really an issue, since you can simply hook the little green (ground) wire up to it from the starter switch, but I'm too anal for that. Consequently, you can also reposition the solenoid with a thick washer behind the rear (right) mounting tab on the solenoid, or 'tweek it' by bending the tabs slightly till it sits where you want it (that's what I ended up doing).
The holes in the stock battery cable lugs have to be enlarged slightly to 5/16". (Use a Unibit so as not to snag a regular drill bit into the soft copper lug and twist up your cables.) The battery cable lugs can be installed without unbending them out of the stock L shape (with a little ingenuity), so they can be returned to stock, later, if you want (it doesn't look as neat, but its easily reversible). You may also want to make up short jumper wires for the thin starter button wires. This is because you have to convert from the female bullet connection of the stock VTX wiring to the round eyelet connection on the new solenoid. You could just cut off and replace the stock female bullet connections with eyelet connections, but again, I do not like premanently altering any stock wiring. Just make up little 1" pigtails with the eyelets on one end and the male bullets on the other - they're all stock electrical sizes and plug right in (and out). Connect up all your wiring and reconnect the battery cable at the battery last. Of course, you did disconnect the battery cable at the battery before you started messing with all of this crap - Sparky.
It appears to be working perfectly and solved my problem. It'll now start with all accessories turned on after sitting in the driveway for 10-15 minutes with the engine off (BTW - I have LOTS of accessories). Yeah, yeah, that's the nature of intermittent electrical problems -I know only too well, but if you are experiencing the same problem I described above - it's certainly an option to try. I'll post if my starting gremlins reappear. Good luck.
Todd
