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stripped a seat bolt!!!???

4.7K views 29 replies 28 participants last post by  FletchRides  
#1 ·
Just got my 1800C about 2 weeks ago, went to take the seat off to wax the full rear fender, and the seat bolts were torqued through the roof!!! I was as gentle as I could be, got one broken loose, and the other just rounded off as pretty as you please(great, just great)... I was using the correct size hex tool provided in the tool kit, but these things were really jammed on there.

Anyone else had this problem, and do you guys think I'll have a problem getting the dealer to get it off and replace it under warranty?



Thanks,
 
#2 ·
vwdeano said:
Just got my 1800C about 2 weeks ago, went to take the seat off to wax the full rear fender, and the seat bolts were torqued through the roof!!! I was as gentle as I could be, got one broken loose, and the other just rounded off as pretty as you please(great, just great)... I was using the correct size hex tool provided in the tool kit, but these things were really jammed on there.

Anyone else had this problem, and do you guys think I'll have a problem getting the dealer to get it off and replace it under warranty?

Had the same thing happen to me. I just waited till the first oil change and had the dealership pull it with an easy-out(sp?). It took them a total of about 15 seconds to fix it. No charge :D

There is a mod out there for replacing the seat bolts with pins that are more easily removed. Maybe someone here will post it.



Thanks,
 
#3 ·
I would just drill the center out, and use an "easyout" to take the core out. You're right though, those suckers are really in there from the factory.
 
#4 ·
Stripped seat bolt

I did myself a favor and bought a good set of metric tools when I started doing a few things to my bike. I leave the tools that came with my bike in the bag for on-road emergencies only. I find using a hex attachment on a ratchet much more stable with fewer slips and strips.

Gasman
 
#5 ·
I also bought a nice set of metric tools as well, really helps a lot to have the right tool for the job. I would think that you could probably get it replaced under warranty, it's common across all X's - and no matter how you snug them up when you reinstall them they will undoubtedly get that tight again before you take them back out. It just seems to be the way they are on this bike.

PS - I'd think twice before letting a stealer try to remove something like that from my bike. I can't count the number of times I've heard people talk about bringing a bike in for service and getting it back with dents/scratches... I'd hate to see what they could do if they were actually TRYING to destroy something (that bolt)...
 
#6 ·
seat bolts

I removed the screws from my seat and did the hitch pin mod by drilling the wholes....no more problems with the screws. I can't remember who posted this mod but it works for me. I will do my passenger seat next for quick solo riding
 
#7 ·
There was a post on Dec. 5 by Hector that describes what he did to aleviate the problem of having those tight screws. Should fix your problem. I plan on doing the same, just haven't gotten around to it yet.
 
#8 ·
It was originally ataDude's mod and I followed his lead and did mine approx. 15 months ago...take a 3/8ths" bit and ream out your C model's seat and frame bolt holes, then go to Lowe's, Home Depot or Ace Hardware and buy 2ea. 3/8" x 1 to 1& 1/4" ball and detent pins. I recommend a dab of marine grade grease on the pin before inserting and there you go.
P.S. With this mod, you can have your seat off quicker than it took to read this post. :pepper1:
 
#11 ·
When mine froze, I broke two ez-outs trying to get it out. I resorted to using a small chisel (or hefty flat blade) and a hammer to ease mine out. Use the chisel to cut a notch in the head of the bolt and tap (or beat) it in the counter clockwise direction until it's out. I then went to the auto parts store and bought regular hex head bolts to replace the allen heads. Allen heads suck!

Good luck,

ss99
 
#12 ·
yep, me too!

I must have it backwards though. I stripped mine putting it back on! (Although, it was getting pretty slippery). I have had that seat on and off more times than I care to think about. i'm sure I can get it off (by slicing across the top) and using a butter knife shaped tool of some sort to put across the top and turn. Then replace it with (like the other guys have said) one of those pin type dealies!
But, it does seem to be pretty common. I doubt if the warranty would cover it though? They would just claim that you used the wrong size wrench or did not use it properly! (to bad most dealers work against us and not for or at least with us).
Anyways, good luck and be thankful it was not a head/exhaust bolt that broke off or stripped! Jack
 
#13 ·
I resorted to using a small chisel (or hefty flat blade) and a hammer to ease mine out. Use the chisel to cut a notch in the head of the bolt and tap (or beat) it in the counter clockwise direction until it's out.


For "peace of mind" humbly suggest a dremmel tool with a cutting blade over a chisel...

Allen heads suck!

Good luck,


All blessings to you...

crew

:crew:

Image
 
#14 ·
tight seat bolts

Feel lucky with just a broken bolt, just put on a new Mustang seat and when I went to take the left side bolt out the bracket it goes into broke right off, oh well got to try and fix that too. :cry:
 
#16 ·
Snowwolfe said:
Could someone post a picture of the bolt you used to create the fix and how it fits in the stock hole?
Here you go:
Image


Get either a 5/16" or 3/8" diameter by 1 1/8" long. The spring loaded ball keeps the pin in place until you want it out. Remove the lanyard if yours come that way. :lol:
 
#17 ·
Happened to me too. THink its common. I tried everything to get it out. (EZ out, Drilling, Chisel) Got PO'D and accidently dropped an EZ out which hit may finder chipping it. :x Went to dealer and they had no problem helping out. They used a tool that had the proper hex that you could tap with a hammer while turning at the same time. (sorry can't come up with name of tool) They made it look easy.

You might want to have them loosen all the seat bolts and then put lithium grease on them so you can get them out yourself next time. I had them take out the back one and then had to come back for the other two.

Could anything else have gone wrong!!

Hope this helps.
 
#19 ·
I have the same problem. Allen wrench stripped out, then I tried hammerring it in a little deeper, then attempted to turn it. The bolt actually turned about a 1/4 turn, then it stripped out again. That was the hardest 1/4 turn I can remember in a LONG time! I tried the easy out and broke 2 drill bits so far, LOL. I'm out of ideas for tonite. Tomorrow I'll give it another crack. :badabing:
 
#20 ·
Trubador said:
ataDude said:
Here you go:
Image
I am confused... so instead of using the Allen Screw you use this pivot pin? Sounds like it would make life easier, but is it as secure/safe as a screw?
Did mine about 40K miles ago. Save enough? But I also plug my tires.
 
#21 ·
The detent ball in the end of the pin keeps it from pulling out
unless you pull it yourself.
The ring on the other end keeps it from going to far in.

My dealer noticed the pins in my seat and showed his mechanics.
They are tired of wrecking the allen head bolts, either
messing up the bolt heads or crossing up the threads.
The pivot pins work fine, and are inexpensive.
I got mine at Lowes Home Improvement Center in the
hardware drawers near the entrance to the store.

The least expensive mod you will make to your bike.
 
#22 ·
ataDude said:
Snowwolfe said:
Could someone post a picture of the bolt you used to create the fix and how it fits in the stock hole?
Here you go:
Image


Get either a 5/16" or 3/8" diameter by 1 1/8" long. The spring loaded ball keeps the pin in place until you want it out. Remove the lanyard if yours come that way. :lol:
This is excellent! Thanks!
 
#24 ·
Put a little anti-size on the screws before you put them back in. I don't know how they manage to get tight by them selves but they do. With the anti-size I havn't had any more problems. I am going to do the pin mod though. The seat pin mod, like the gas line mod, makes getting at the mechanicals a hell of a lot easier.