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Tips/tricks for exhaust port bolts?

90 views 6 replies 3 participants last post by  rangers4u  
#1 ·
Sooooooo --- I have been hearing a noise that I was worried might be oil pump chain or timing chain related......but I think this may be it.......well, if nothing else its one more problem to deal with. LOL The picture is the backside of the rear jogs pipe/manifold union. Its been leaking a while...clearly....

I've been working on stuff for about 45 years --- and exhaust bolts have always freaked me out.

I put pipes on my VTX1300 when I had that bike , but that was when it was new......old car exhaust manifold bolts can seize etc in the heads.....I have seen a friend break bolts on his bike.....

That said, I put a socket on the rear pipe manifold bolts...while they would not tighten any more (I was being very careful, I am still riding thru the season) I was able to loosen them maybe a 1/4 turn or so....and then retighten so thats a good sign I guess.....didnt try the fronts yet....

These aftermarket pipes will have to come off so I can replace the gaskets....frame bolts etc......thatll be a hoot I am sure......but.....looking for any good tips/hints for when doing this....

I will probably make this a winter project......order the gaskets etc now I guess.....

Thanks for any words of wisdom, VTX brethren.
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#3 ·
I think the problem comes in when the nut seizes to the stud and the stud siezes to the manifold......Saw this happen on a shadow....

Your post makes me feel a little better, as does the rear nuts seemingly breaking loose easily......but as they say "what can go wrong probably will" LOL

Do you put anything on the nuts, like antisieze, when you reassemble?
 
#4 ·
Never used anti-seize, but you could start the bike and let it idle for a few seconds and then shut it down to put a little heat in the nuts to make it easier to break them loose if they don't pop right off when cold. They are tiny little 10mm nuts they should come right off
 
#7 ·
Aftermarket pipes have thinner than stock exhaust flanges. If reassembling and using the stock chromed acorn nuts, you will need a flat washer or 2 under the nuts to keep from bottoming out before achieving correct torque. Or switch to new SS hex nuts instead of the acorns. If you see any curvature of the flanges from tightening incorrectly, they will have to be flattened to get a good seal. I found this out by mistake. If you don't do these things you do run the risk of pulling the studs out of the head then big troubles.